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Discussion starter · #25 ·
Looks Good. can u put up some pics of the throttle and shifter under the cowl?
Ill get more pics up tomorrow With everything complete with both motors BUT the Shifting and Throttle are 100% stock under the cowl! I had the cables built the same as the factory yamaha/teleflex cables on the motor side so everything works exactly the same as when it was hooked to the controls on the console! On problem was making my throttle lever "push" instead of pull the throttle.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
I am using a 7" travel cable at the moment but I was talking to Shawn at Madison Power Systems to see if in the future he could build me a 8" cable, Problem is the longer the stem on the cable the more prone to bending if you say strike an underwater object!
I thought it would be simple and just hook it to the same factory bracket the the "Normal" steer cable conected to from the console. This was not even in the ball park motor only turned 1/2 way in each direction. In the end i made a bracket to tuck the cable as far under front of the motor (and closer to the pivot point) and still have clearance! I am still a little over a 1/16 off my factor turn stops. It took some time to get everything balanced so the motor turned equal in each direction.
The whole build would be much easier on a 2072 or even an 1860 with a transom that went straight across!
 
Discussion starter · #27 ·
I'm pitting together a kicker motor 25ph on a 1860 flat with a 115 outboard any in put would be great thanks
If you have a straight transom it should be much simpler! Im looking at putting a 90 on my boat next season, it going to make everything even more crowded back there. You could always look at a "Kicker mount" I just personally didn't want to go that route.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Garpwacker found me a place called "Grip Works" they have exactly what I had in mind for a grip and about any other kind of grip you could think of! LOL
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Thanks for your input do you have any idea were I can get a steering stick.
Im sure you could get a local shop to build you one, I built mine with 8" of adjustability on the bottom. the first hole is 9" form the center of the bearing and the last hole is 17". The farther the pivot you go the shorter the throw of your stick. I have it set now somewhere in the middle around 12"-13"
Even if you have the stick you still need to be able to weld and do some small machining to be able to make and place all the brackets in the correct location once you have it setup on the boat.
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
Found the perfect grip. I was going to order the same thing from Grip Works but as I was greasing the motor tonight I saw this on the handle, so I took it off the grease gun and it fit perfect!!!!
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Discussion starter · #34 ·
Both Motors all hooked up and ready to roll, my new Boyd Fuel tank will be here on Monday!
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Discussion starter · #35 ·
My modified Mariner to work with my Yamaha Control box. Mariner was a pull throttle, Controls were a push throttle. So i flipped the lever and mounted upside down and then made a new cable mount! It Works! And I had to make up some cable ends, the originals were plastic and broke.
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Discussion starter · #36 ·
Looks Good. can u put up some pics of the throttle and shifter under the cowl?
Here it is, 100% stock Yamaha! Madison made the cables the same as stock so they hooked directly in to factory locations!
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Here it is, 100% stock Yamaha! Madison made the cables the same as stock so they hooked directly in to factory locations!
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Looks Clean and neat... so are the shifter and throttle cables going into the motor haves bulkhead connectors on them like they do on deck?
I was just wondering how they were anchored down at the motor....
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
there is 3 bolts that hold the Mount/cover on that holds the cables in place. I have seen it done with on tiller style motors with a clamp setup like I used on the throttle.
 
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