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DonArkie

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
finished off the deck & started attaching the knee/light rail. Earlier this week I changed out trolling motor shaft from 40" to longer shaft I ordered from Bowfishing Extreme. I cut the shaft from its original size 68" to 60". The deck is contrusted of marine ply, 3/4" the rubber matting is matting for under a tread mill. I applied 2 coats of contact cement let dry and layed it on. Trimmed off the excess and use 2" alumi to trim out the matting, counter sunk the holes for the bugglehead screws. The knee /light rail is attached by 3" plow bolts, their flat to the plywood surface, kinda like a carage boly but flat faced.
to attach the deck to the alumin framing, will be done by 10 machine screws with fender washers for each half of the deck. heres what I've got done so far. The deck is 55" up fron 69" on the back & 56" deep. The rerason why I built the deck in havles is that if I need to do more wiring or add more lights, & can remove the complete knee/light rail in havles , just by unpluging it from underneth remove 10 machine screws and slid it off.
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Discussion starter · #3 ·
yes, 1/8" x 1" steel box tubing. The welds been ground flush with the metal, I'm doing the same with the genny rack too.
 
yes, 1/8" x 1" steel box tubing. The welds been ground flush with the metal, I'm doing the same with the genny rack too.
Looks great, mine is steel as well, 3/4" sq. tubing thin wall. It really isn't that much heavier than aluminum. My .25" aluminum light brackets are heavy in comparison to the rail. Built the rail too short so, starting again with 1" to raise it. I should have pics up this weekend. The thin wall was tough with a stick welder. I might try some 3/32 stainless rods this go around.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
I have a rubber gasket were the 2 decks meet (both have them) they'll make a waterproof seal so the deck wont leak in the joint. I done this so when I need to work on the electrical or install more lights, all I do is reach under the deck and un-plug the plug for the left or right side which disconnects the lights, remove 10 machine screws & 2 trolling motor machine screw and slide the deck & light rail off in 1 piece.
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Discussion starter · #7 · (Edited)
I finished everything but the lights, Base Plates for the seats & post for the seats. The trolling motor mount "Prowler mount" is attached with machine bolts & T-Nuts, 3 on each side. I'm rethinking if I should go 2 50W LED's up front (I'm talking about the 50w led flood 12v only) and 3 27w LED's on each side total of 6 27w?
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Discussion starter · #9 · (Edited)
soon it will meet and be attached to my 14-48 Alumacraft Jon Boat. I've been working on the genny rack here & there, heres what it looks like from my drawing. 18" wide, 36" tall @ the bottom, tapered to 18"w x24" deep. Constructed of 1/8" x1" boxed tubed metal, primed & painted OD Green.
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Dang clean!!!!Don,I am using those troller plugs on my 50's as well....they are great!!!I have 2 50's up front and five 27's above those,and four down each side,two more fifties to your mix wont hurt,I am contemplating adding more some where maybe 41's on the corners.I am also building a rear deck like yours and will have 2 50's back there
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
I installed my trolling motor plug today. All joints are soldered & shrinked wrapped.
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