Ok guys i got a 1766 f&f flatbottom that wants to porpose BAD. Any ideas how to make it stop? I tslked to Scott at bowfishing extreme and he said trim tabs will cure but i dont think i can use them because my drains are in the way. Any other ideas? Maby a jack plate and good hydrofoil? Help me out guys!!
How do you stop porposinging on flatbotton?
kskiller
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Ok guys i got a 1766 f&f flatbottom that wants to porpose BAD. Any ideas how to make it stop? I tslked to Scott at bowfishing extreme and he said trim tabs will cure but i dont think i can use them because my drains are in the way. Any other ideas? Maby a jack plate and good hydrofoil? Help me out guys!!
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trim tabs are best cuz u can adjust them ...perfect
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6,697 Posts
Put a fat beiotch in the front!
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you can either get a "Big Boned" girlfriend and have her ride in the bow... OR.. Try trimming your motor in a bit... If you don't have trim/tilt pull the stop rod out and suck the prop further into the boat.. That should help.. :tu:
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weld on trim tabs go under the boat not on the back. i am in the process of tuning my rig as we speak. my new 1660 slickbottom did nothing but want to stick her nose straight up. yesterday i welded 2 tabs underneth in front of each pod. it alomost fixed my jumping around on the first try. i went and looked at the new G3 boats at my dealer and the tabs on them have a cup to them. mine are more wedge shaped. gonna get back uderneth and grind a cup in them. this will create more drag and keep the nose down for good, but just in case i am also adding a wedge to my motor. this will increase my negative trim witch should increase my rear lift. when i get done i will post finished pictures on how i achieved a smooth ride. the whole point to the trim tabs is making more drag in the rear so the nose stays down. just make sure they are exactly the same our your boat will pull one way or the other.
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...yea that's what I was trying to say...lol..
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I agree. These wedges work great.
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They will mount above the drain holes no problem. Some of the other solutions may help as well. As we discussed the Trim Tabs solved my issues on the last 3 boats.
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ok so heres what i welded on yesterday. made my rig tollerable but not at WOT. they are about 2"x 8" x 1/2" in the rear.
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after installing the they let me do 24mph before the nose lifted. so heres what ive been doing for the last 3 hrs.
![Image]()
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by cupping these wedges they should give me added resistance over the straight wedges.:tu:
by cupping these wedges they should give me added resistance over the straight wedges.:tu:
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and finally i have installed the motor wedges that will give me more negative trim. i didnt try to measure but i would guess they are around 7*.
![Image]()
heres the motor trimed all the way down. looks alot better than before.
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after toiling over this for a while i decided that the "sporty" design i went with on my pods was actually giving me nose lift. thats not good on a flatbottom. next time i will know better. even before i cupped these tabs, when accelerating the pods broke suction at about 16-18mph alowing the rear to rise a bit. hopfully these changes will increase my handling and ryde quaility. i also have a hydrofoil ordered to increase my steering and cavitation. slickbottoms like mine tend to slide all over the place when banking. hope ive helped a few guys. im learning this all myself. i had not even seen a trim tab untill tues.
heres the motor trimed all the way down. looks alot better than before.
after toiling over this for a while i decided that the "sporty" design i went with on my pods was actually giving me nose lift. thats not good on a flatbottom. next time i will know better. even before i cupped these tabs, when accelerating the pods broke suction at about 16-18mph alowing the rear to rise a bit. hopfully these changes will increase my handling and ryde quaility. i also have a hydrofoil ordered to increase my steering and cavitation. slickbottoms like mine tend to slide all over the place when banking. hope ive helped a few guys. im learning this all myself. i had not even seen a trim tab untill tues.
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Yep same problem with my SD boat as well, pods were angled up too much, caused the boat to porpoise and suck down in the tunnel and not raise up. Put a transom wedge on and it helped alot, allowed me more trim with the motor, but still ended up welding tabs under my pods at the transom edge and basically welded the lip of the tab to the transom edge then welded in a 1/2 aluminum bar at the trailing end and drilled and tapped holes in it so I can use washers or plates to adjust the amount of trim I need. Amazing what 1/8in difference can do! After alot of experimenting I finally got the boat to not porpoise at all and leveled the ride of the boat out as well, have about 1/8in more tab depth on the right side vs the left to level it, but did end up loosing about 3-4mph in top speed but the boat pops out of the tunnel much quicker and planes off alot better as well and I can trim my outboard all the way up now at full speed and throw a rooster tail out the back.
My tabs are 10x20 and about 1" high at the rear now, but I have alot of weight to lift on the back of my boat.
My tabs are 10x20 and about 1" high at the rear now, but I have alot of weight to lift on the back of my boat.
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478 Posts
LOL, that would work
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