I have been on the forum for a quite a while. I’ve seen a lot of awesome boats and gotten a whole lot of good information. My boat is still in progress, but I hope to have it finished soon so it’s ready to fish. I have waited a while to post pictures. After lurking on the forum for a long time, I had a pretty good idea of what I wanted. I found a good deal on a 1756 Triton and couldn’t pass it up. Hopefully this may give someone some ideas on their next build. If you have any suggestions and ideas please send them my way as this is my first boat build. Here we go… Here is right after I bought it.
1756 build in progress, flush deck, 100w Seelites
walkerman88
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41 Posts
Looking good!
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93 Posts
lookin good man!
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93 Posts
Where did you get the flush latch?? I can't find them anywhere!
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1,718 Posts
Very nice, clean work. Great job!
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71 Posts
I bought both the latch and the hinge from Cabela's.
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2,829 Posts
Huh? They're everywhere! Just gotta look online bro-tato chip. Google Southco, Perko, Gem, Sea Dog, Marine Town...there's a pile of em out there.
Build looks pretty good. It's too late now, but you coulda cut out the original deck and saved 75-100lbs in the front. And with your removable rail, maybe consider putting some riv-nuts in the deck, and bolting it down from the top. That way when it's removed there's nothing up top but a totally flat, flush deck.
Overall it looks good though.
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71 Posts
Thanks for the compliment as well as the advise. I've looked at your builds before on here and am very impressed with what you come up with. I did consider both of those things before and can't say yet whether I made the right choices because it hasn't been in the water yet.
As for the front deck, I thought about cutting the front out, but it is full of flotation. Some of my friends had a very bad experience in cold water after they took the flotation out of their boat. They almost didn't make it. Im not sure with all of the added weight in my boat whether the flotation will help or not, but I couldn't make myself remove it.
The thought behind the stubs and the rails instead of riv nuts was because I will be using this boat as a pole fishing boat as well and wanted the small rails in the boat because I would knock my tackle boxes and who knows what else in the lake without it.
May not be the best way on either of these ideas, but I wanted to post the reasoning behind them not to question your ideas, but in case others might be interested.
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2,829 Posts
Thanks for the compliment, and for explaining the logic behind the build. I can see where you're coming from, but honestly that flotation isn't adding any safety unless the boat is capsized. Another downside is that over time it will get waterlogged-even closed cell foam.
Not saying you have to be exactly like me, but in your case what you did is pretty close to how I built my flush decks. My logic on cutting out the factory deck is not only weight reduction, but once everything is welded up tight, if the boat were to capsize, what you'll have is essentially a giant 'air chamber' up front, which will give you more flotation than foam. I've been unfortunate enough to have seen a few capsized boats in person, and all of em ended up upside down, with the outboard far under the water, and nothing but the nose of the boat bobbing above water. The boat usually seems to float at an angle from 45-90* when capsized.
That's the primary reason I think my design is actually safer than a deck filled with foam. Eventually the boat will prolly sink, because inevitably air will leak out somewhere, but I'm willing to bet the farm it'll stay afloat longer than foam.
But ya, it's pretty hard to bring yourself to chop up the factory deck and foam.
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2,090 Posts
Looking good! :tu:
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730 Posts
Looks awesome!
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71 Posts
That makes sense. Can't disagree with that.
Still have a few more hatches to make and possibly may redo the one in the front on the back of the deck. Where did you get your hinges that you used on the hatches in your builds? Are they stainless?
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71 Posts
Having a slight delay... I have a older 81 lb motorguide 36V that was given to me that supposedly worked. I always used hand control in my old boat and this one was foot control. I was thinking to get or make a sexy stick for the foot control and try that out since the trolling motor didn't cost anything. I was actually looking forward to trying something new with the foot control. Well now this trolling motor doesn't seem to work and is in worse shape (mainly cosmetic) than I remember it being. Now I guess I need suggestions on what troller to buy... Foot control? Hand Control? Size? Brand? Any input is appreciated.
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2,401 Posts
Tohatsu 15.:laugh:
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264 Posts
As big as you can manage! I burnt up three (yes, 3) 70 lb MK trollers over the course of one year in my 1754. For my new build I ditched the troller and am building a fan, but if I needed to go the troller route again, I'd def go 100+ lb
Edit: I also happened to love the foot control with the sexy stick when I had the cable steer troller. I also mounted a switch at the top of my stick for turning the troller on an off with my finger. I spliced it into the momentary switch of the foot control itself. Not hard to do and it was a great mod.
I also had the co pilot with 2 remotes (One for me and whomever was fishing with me). Once I got the hang of it, I preferred the co pilot, but to get to 100 lbs of thrust, I think you need to step into Terrova territory, which can be priceyy.
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71 Posts
The trolling motor that I had is working now, so Trey finished the troller bracket for me. Got the trolling motor mounted and the LED bar mounted under the bracket. Also got the front mats installed.
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71 Posts
Picked up a sexy stick yesterday from Bubba. Also decided to test out some textured paint on the gun box to see what it will look like. Hope to have some wiring done early next week and have it where I can at least go fishing. Still quite a bit to do, but its coming along slowly but surely.
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