I was using my riptide saturday night for about 15 minutes then it stoped. I waited a few minutes and still didn't work. So I used my outboard for a few hours then tried the troller and it worked perfectly for the next few hours. So I am wondering if there is a reset delay if the prop stops abruptly? or is there some other problem that might cause this?
80lb RipTide Stoped working
scott7030
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I was using my riptide saturday night for about 15 minutes then it stoped. I waited a few minutes and still didn't work. So I used my outboard for a few hours then tried the troller and it worked perfectly for the next few hours. So I am wondering if there is a reset delay if the prop stops abruptly? or is there some other problem that might cause this?
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Did it stop while it was running or not come on when you turned it back on?
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it's hard to say if it stoped when it was running because as soon as it hits ground I turn the power off. As soon as that it would not start up again. it wouldn't start in the amount of time it took me to check the breaker reset that i have inline and unplug the wires to the motor and check the battery connections. Also the weird thing was the built in battery indicator was still working on the trolling motor.
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mine did that and it would start back up in about 3-4 min or so after some time i sold it and he replaced the brushes i think that might have fixed it not to sure but mine did cut out but would restart
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Next time it quits leave it turned on low and bump/turn the prop with an arrow or something. If it starts running you either have a sticking brush or a dirty spot on the armature in the brush contact area.
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I bet you dollars to dougnballs that its got water inside the housing......BLUE JUICE OF DEATH..... Those riptide 80's are garbage. I have put three on my boat in the last 2 years.... GARBAGE AND VERY STUPID DESIGN! 1200$ troller....lol! What a joke.
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Mine too has stopped working, well somewhat has stopped working. Like OBG stated dirty brushes or armature. I talked with my Minn Kota tech yesterday about mine. He told me it was more then likely a shorted out armature. I am able to tap the blade while powered on and it will work. It seems at the lower settings it will chatter (not run real smooth and make noise) and at the higher the setting it will run a little cleaner. I will get more clarification tomorrow when I drop mine off for repair. I will update you guys with what he tells me.
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If you can tap the prop and get it to run the armature has 2 spots of corrosion where the brushes have set during periods of non-use. I take out the armature, chuck it up in a lathe or something and polish the brush contact area back shiny with emory cloth. $4 o-ring set and it's as good as new.
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Since you don't like the 80's what troller do you like?
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I would do that, but since it is under warranty I will let Minn Kota foot the bill for this one. I know it isnt much but maybe the more they see in the shops with this issue, will sound an alaram to come up with some type of remedy for this issue. I have only had this troller for a little over a month, but the last one I had I abused and had no issues with it.
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Along the lines of "RESETTING" a stopped troller, I have read that you (OBG) suggest the use of a breaker between the battery and troller when using a converter. I am using a 12V M-K troller right now with a powermaxx. What breaker do you suggest I get and where do you suggest I get it? Thank you in advance for your assistance.
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You should have a fuse or breaker close to the battery on the troller circuit, converter or not. If you have a 55# troller I would go with a 60 amp fose or breaker.
I like the Maxi fuse set-up from Napa.
Or you can find the resettable breakers on Ebay.
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Thank you, OBG! I had never used a breaker/fuse before. I've always hooked 'em up straight to the battery. Guess I'll try and see how the other (possibly safer) side lives this year...
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Like OBG said, I would look into a manual rest one, that way you wont have to wait for it to cool off it the circuit trips. You will also be able to troubleshoot easier if a problem does arise, by ruling the circuit breaker out (by being tripped or not being tripped)
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I looked at the breakers. Conveniently enough, the "economical" ones stop at the 50amp mark, and OBG suggested a 60amp...I'm going to look fuses now and compare prices.
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