just looked at the face book page the alum sheet the chip is mounted to you said pop rivet the chip to the sheet the chips come with mounting holes and this alum sheet is all the heat sink you will need and do you build a housing for the setup or not. last where to buy the chips really like what you are doing.

 

sorry i placed a pic of the completed light on the post

 

yes the chips have mounting holes already drilled a 1/8 pop rivet fits, the aluminum works well for the heat sync, chips are available from e-bay. i would suggest that you order from a us seller or the ship time takes forever i mount these as is the chips are water proof and the led have 120 to 160 degree beam which give them good coverage. the chips and driver power supplies are shown in the pictures on the Facebook page. i got the dc boost converter a few days ago and hooked it up it powered 4 of the chips fine. i haven't had time to run a long time test on it but for the price it seems like a good option for silent running.

 

i placed pictures on the build post on face book. they will fit in the top rail of our pontoon and shine on a downward angle

 

View attachment 120849 i started trying this because when i started i couldn't justify the money that i was going to have to spend to get into the sport. this build of a 200 watt light that should put out about 16000 lums cost less than $25 ad to that the cost of the power supply and on a 110 volt system you are at less than $60 if the dc boost works out you can have a 12 volt system for less than $45. we fished the us open last year with this set up only using 30 watt chips and a harbor freight 900 watt generator and was seeing fish far deeper than we could shoot (yes table rock is a very clear lake) but they also worked great on lake of the Ozark which isn't as clear.

 

reread what you did didn,t quite understand using the forceps to do the heat sink how does that step work?

 

I didn't see any pictures of the finished lights?

 

X2!op:

 

if you don't clamp something between the chip and the end of the spot that you are soldering your wire to it can heat up and damage the chip. i used a small pair of forceps to block the heat. radio shack sells an item that does the same thing it is just a small clip that gos above the spot that you are soldering i have a close up of the chip as i am soldering the wire on that shows the forceps in place it is on the face book post. Thanks Danny

 

Got it!! just wasn,t looking close enough have you tried dc drivers yet?thanks w.s.

 

just got it a couple of days ago i hooked it up to four chips( 2 of these units ) it seemed to work great, it didn't heat up much and the chips are bright. i will have to run them outside for a night or so before i can recommend it but it is showing promise

 

what is heat sink?

 

the aluminum sheet that is 12 by 18 inches draw the heat out of the bulbs. to make this work better you need to put a heat sync compound on the back of the bulb before you mount it to the aluminum.
Thanks Danny

 

so heat sink is some kind of silicone pooky stuff?

 

this is what i use.

 

Lol I was thinking the same thing, yeah he said speaker wire.
Looks more like a chip stuck to a bent piece of metal to me. Doesn't really resemble a light.
But hey if it works for him the by all means.
Wonder how well these would do inside like a ******* HPS/MH housing though.

 

like the setup would have run the wires from back side but an easy build and simple that is good would need protection if you run through grass or brush maybe a clear cover over the chip for bugs but said they were water proof.

 

this is what it looks like with 30 watt chips, 4 on each side.

 

View attachment 120889 this is what it looks like with 30 watt chips, 4 on each side.

just think what 100 watts would do. when you order chips you have to state if you want 12 volt,24 volt or 110 is this correct or not.

 

snake you could take your stainless pot idea and bowbros chip idea and build a cheap light!

this definatly has potential but i was looking on amazon and have found 50watt leds for 27.00$. that would be hard to compete with. the chips are cheap but the houseing could up the price a little depending on what "look" you wanted. i need some new lights but am waiting on garrybriggs led review before i pull the trigger on anything.

 

It's coming bro, building the deck right now and lights should be here Monday!!!

 

You can Use the power supply for 110 volt systm or the dc boost to run off a battery

 

So far I haven't put these in a factory style housing they have worked good the way they are also I haven't been able to find any housings online to buy. I am assuming that you could upgrade lower power lights with these chips. So far I have tried them on the dc boost and they work with it set from 27 to 32 volts without a problem. Guys this is just a simple way to hopefully get more people into our fun sport. These can be modified to fit any platform I hope people try it and improve it
Thanks Danny

 

the dc boost not quiet clear on is this like converter between generator and your light and the battery?

 

Good luck on the life span on those led.
Not near enough heat sink, your junction temp must be very high, which will vastly decrease light output.

 

you talking the spot where the chip is riveted to the sheet?

 

I hope you do the test. the biggest worry I have about your contraption is the dissipation of heat. just about every problem ive seen LED's have has came from excess heat. weather its a loose wire or low contact from the heat sink or the heat sink being to small. its their downfall.

what worries me is most mfg. use cheap magnesium injection molded housings. The higher quality mfg. will use some of the same alloys but with increased attention to adding fins to the housings. Mag alloys won't dissipate heat as well as straight aluminum and a small finned heat sink will dissipate heat better than a large sheet. as far as the chips go you may get by with your design for a little while but I fear over time you chips will burn up. its not the immediate operating temperature that kills the chip its the duration temperature that ruins them in the end.

Ive looked into doing something like what you trying because IMO factory housings are a joke. They weigh more than they should. They almost all have their own drivers. And the reflectors are not functional. The only reason for different housing sizes is to reduce the temperature created by larger chips.

Try the 2 lights you have set up. if they fail try to find some finned heat sink and attach it directly behind each chip, the larger the better and don't forget to apply the contact grease before you attach it.

 

Rambo have a question or maybe two ifa chip is suppended in air and turned on will it just over heat and burn up also if heavier alum sheet was used say ,o90 heavy enough to weld to and put a series of fins on the backside and leave front open would that work?

 

Ok guys i built mine last year with 30 watt led chips placed paste on the back and pop riveted them to aluminum. the sheets seemed to transfer the heat pretty good i used them all season last year and had no failures the great thing about the power supplies that i used was i could adjust the voltage to the bulbs the chips are rated for up to 36 volts but the difference in light output is imperceptible at a lower voltage of 30 volts and the chips run cooler. yes they may not run for their expected life span of 50000 hours but the 30 watt bulbs were around $5 and the process of replacing them on the sheet is simple. the 100 watt chips are going to run hotter but i mounted them on larger sheets of aluminum and have tested them at voltages as low as 27 volts with no change in the brightness that i can tell by the naked eye. the 100 watt bulbs run about $8 dollars each so if i get season or two out of them i will be happy. placing computer heat syncs on the chips worked well also but i found them hard to mount on the boat so i went with the aluminum sheets. i plan on shooting the season with both sets one on a generator ant the other on the dc boost converter so i can have silent running or long shooting time. ( the dc boost connects to a 12 volt battery and increases the voltage up to 30+ volts at a reduces amperage which works great for led lights)

 

I love it man, it don't have to be fancy.
The reason the voltage makes little difference Is the diode drops a somewhat specific amperage, the current change is very small in relation to voltage changes. It is recommended to use a constant current driver as to limit possible current to the chip.

 

Ok here is the finished product you can add covers over the chips or mount as is. like i said take it and run with it improve it and let us see what you come up with.

 

Ok here is the finished product you can add covers over the chips or mount as is. like i said take it and run with it improve it and let us see what you come up with.
View attachment 121098 View attachment 121106 View attachment 121114

looks neat will be interested to see how they perform and hours can get from a chip are these the 100 watt chips.

 

Looks great! Good Job!

 

yes they are 100 watt chips, the 30 watt chips i used to build my first sets are still running after 2 seasons. these 100 watt chips i placed on larger aluminum sheets and they seem to be dissipating their heat pretty well