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yes that's what Istickem means. the 2"x2" square behind the chip will get very hot and cannot dissipate fast enough. the only resolution is to attach a finned heat sink to the back. the thinner the fins the more there are the better. you have to create a environment that pulls heat away from the chip very fast.
Used computer heat sinks are great for this. PC repair shops usually have tons of them for cheap
I use all copper ones as copper transfers heat 3x better than aluminum

I hate to think how much $ and time I have into DIY led lights:headbang:
 
Used computer heat sinks are great for this. PC repair shops usually have tons of them for cheap
I use all copper ones as copper transfers heat 3x better than aluminum

I hate to think how much $ and time I have into DIY led lights:headbang:
just bolt the fins on backside of the sheet?
 
Rambo have a question or maybe two ifa chip is suppended in air and turned on will it just over heat and burn up also if heavier alum sheet was used say ,o90 heavy enough to weld to and put a series of fins on the backside and leave front open would that work?
yes they generate so much heat they will burn up in minutes, especially those 100s. as far as the "welding fins" go I don't think you could weld that much without going insane. I would not recommend welding on a extruded heat sink either. the use of contact grease is very important. Im not sure how a guy would do trying to weld around the grease.



 
Discussion starter · #45 ·
Ok guys i built mine last year with 30 watt led chips placed paste on the back and pop riveted them to aluminum. the sheets seemed to transfer the heat pretty good i used them all season last year and had no failures the great thing about the power supplies that i used was i could adjust the voltage to the bulbs the chips are rated for up to 36 volts but the difference in light output is imperceptible at a lower voltage of 30 volts and the chips run cooler. yes they may not run for their expected life span of 50000 hours but the 30 watt bulbs were around $5 and the process of replacing them on the sheet is simple. the 100 watt chips are going to run hotter but i mounted them on larger sheets of aluminum and have tested them at voltages as low as 27 volts with no change in the brightness that i can tell by the naked eye. the 100 watt bulbs run about $8 dollars each so if i get season or two out of them i will be happy. placing computer heat syncs on the chips worked well also but i found them hard to mount on the boat so i went with the aluminum sheets. i plan on shooting the season with both sets one on a generator ant the other on the dc boost converter so i can have silent running or long shooting time. ( the dc boost connects to a 12 volt battery and increases the voltage up to 30+ volts at a reduces amperage which works great for led lights)
 
I love it man, it don't have to be fancy.
The reason the voltage makes little difference Is the diode drops a somewhat specific amperage, the current change is very small in relation to voltage changes. It is recommended to use a constant current driver as to limit possible current to the chip.
 
Discussion starter · #47 ·
Ok here is the finished product you can add covers over the chips or mount as is. like i said take it and run with it improve it and let us see what you come up with.
 
Looks great! Good Job!
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
yes they are 100 watt chips, the 30 watt chips i used to build my first sets are still running after 2 seasons. these 100 watt chips i placed on larger aluminum sheets and they seem to be dissipating their heat pretty well
 
don,t know how the computer fins are shaped Istickem was talking about but if they could be bolted on the backside with some of the heat sink compound under them might help get rid of more heat just thinking of more ways to do the setup. like what you have done.
 
Discussion starter · #52 ·
you could place heat sync compound on it then using the chip as a template drill through the aluminum sheet into the heat sync and secure with pop rivets. so the chip and heat sync sandwich the aluminum.
 
Like the idea of upgrading current lights with bigger chips, got me thinking. I have a light that I attach to my bow for shooting off the bank, its a 3 inch 16w driving light, has four led's in it, I run it off a small 12v sealed lead acid battery. Would love to change it to like one 30w. Think that would be possible?
 
Discussion starter · #54 ·
might be able to if you can find a bulb or chip that is about the same size. you would have to make sure the driver would put out the right voltage for the bulb and make sure you use heat sync compound when you reassemble it look on ebay and see if you can find an appropriate replacement bulb or chip
 
So you are running two 100 watt chips on one dc booster correct? Is this because of the amp draw of the lights and the fact the booster you chose only outputs 10 amps? Im asking because Im trying to see how much of all the components I would need to run 10 of thes LED's off of a single battery.
 
id like to see pictures of them on your boat please
 
Discussion starter · #57 ·
So you are running two 100 watt chips on one dc booster correct? Is this because of the amp draw of the lights and the fact the booster you chose only outputs 10 amps? Im asking because Im trying to see how much of all the components I would need to run 10 of thes LED's off of a single battery.
so far i have tested the system with 2 100 watt and 3 30 watt chips on one booster it runs them but you need to use larger wire going from the booster to the battery due to the amp draw. i have not tested them as to how long they will run on a charge yet. i am hoping for nice weather this weekend to get every thing mounted and try a duration run
i should be posting pictures later this weekend of the finished product and how they work, hoping they will light up the world
 
Discussion starter · #58 ·
this is my boat from last year it had 5 30 watt leds on each side 2 each on the fronts and 3 each on the sides.
 
Daylight pictures please lol
 
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