A few of us are but you would be better off asking me for the bushes baked beans recipe:laugh:

 

Lmao
Hey I've helped and offered pics to dozens of guys

 

Check the "LED ????" thread about 6 below this one.

 

I am still thinking up a housing other than a halo housing. pritty sure i am going to build my own from scratch and sink when i get my tig welder.

 

So I guess yall are pretty happy with the LEDs on Skyhook's boat? We aren't replacing our HPSs. We have built a rear platform for our boat and had already bought the custom housings for the sides. We figured we'd try 2 LEDs on the back.

 

Yeah. Thats the thread I was referring to. So chip, driver, housing, and some kind of heat sink. So a housing the same dimensions as my 150 hps housings just not as deep. Some kind of plate inside to mount the chip possibly isolated by some kind of heat resistant material. Then a heat sink for the driver. In theory if you have all aluminum housings and an aluminum platform you should be able to incorporate this into your heat sink?

 

From what I know , the led chip needs the heat sink not the driver ...that "glue" is actually a special thermal heat transfer paste

 

You might not have enough dispersion rate to the sides if you direct mount to the boat. you would still need to enclose it. that is alot of heat in one area. The aquarium guys say you need 253sq/in of surface area to cool a 100 watt led without a fan.

 

I plan to run my drivers remote. not sure what you could do for a driver box on the light.

 

I think you'll play hell making them look like an HPS housing...

 

Isn't the heat sink basically glue between the chip and the housing?

 

No that bridges the gap between the LED chip and the heat sink. the back of the led will smoke if it can't pass the heat to the heat sink.

 

No, heat sinks are made to pull the heat from the substrate of the LED. Often aluminum but copper is 3 times better. The rough average is 10 sq inches of surface area per watt of diode. The housing them selves on the lights sold here are the sink, a thermal paste is used to help transfer that heat, this is a very important step.

 

I didn't know, I have been playing with the idea of making a super human hand held flashlight

 

Difference between 4500-5000K CCT and 6000K CCT

 

Heres some I some I built in a 1000w halogen fixture, I let it run for 16 hrs a day for two weeks, it degraded and Id guess lost 40-50% if its output then a few of the "dots" blinked out, it was a cheap ebay LED...100w

 

My thought was a housing the same dimensions as my 150 hps housing but instead of 6" deep build it only like 2 or 3" deep like 9x9x3 and weld fins to the back of the housing to act like a heat sink. Am I way off base with this?

 

For a 100 w this was not enugh sink in the long run, itll run for awhile but LED is a different breed from other kinds of lights

 

Here is my first run using 1 1/2" coppor pipe with end cap for a sink, after I stuffed the pipe with correr wire and thermal welded the wire to the pipe it was sufficient but really awkward, the array is obviously not attached but gives an idea.

 

Stickem, I found your post on reef nation about that in my research..lol

 

Skeet, musts been someone else.
Best forum I found for help was candlepower forum. Lots of great guys there willing to help.

 

How much easier would it be to control the heat of a 50 watt as opposed to the 100. And Stickem did you join the 1 1/2 copper the the housing?

 

Heat disapation is proportional and so is the money. light less of a heat sink and a little less money. but alot less light.

 

I tried with thermal epoxy. Ultimately I replaced the copper pipe with a sink from a CPU.
I'll try to post pics of it if I can find on my home PC
Heat sink is roughly calculated per watt, so a 50w needs half of what a 100w needs, technically a little less than half as a sinks effectiveness is reduced as the sink material gets further from the chip

 

are yall running straight batteries or converters or 120volt???

 

120. I can run 10 100's and still fit two pm55 on a 2000 genny. just have to be easy on the inrush.

 

i run a 12volt system with a converter for when the batteries get weak. i have been looking at the halogen head lihgts. 12 volt plug in, can be adapted to any houseing and pull less than 5 amps a bulb. a single bulb can put out 1700 lumens 2 bulbs in a housing is 3400 lumens. not ideal for a battery only set up but a cheap light for a converter.

 

yes

 

i would guess the 120's get hotter than the 12volt?

thats a heck of a load on that genny. 2500 watts!

 

Nope,only the driver is different, the driver changes ac volts to dc volts, at the LED chip is the same which is what makes the heat

 

im not a numbers guy either. if you start with a fully charged battery and run the converter from the start, then it dosnt pull as much on the genny?

 

right! the 700 and sum watts listed is full load. the only time you pull a hard draw is if you hammer down on the throttle.

 

Well, I have a driver and warm white chip on the way now and just got a cheap heat sink to try out. If this one holds up passive then i know the sinks i want to use will work just fine. or i will find out what a BIG led fire looks like. either way fun fun fun

 

That's the challenge,the LeD doesn't just blow up or something cool like that. I'd about guarantee it will work, if not sinked right it can take hundreds of hours to see failures or just degradation of output.
I understand why mike b doesn't post pics of his design, but I'd be curious to see it and how long the led lasts if the housing/sink is as small and passive as claimed.
I would bet the farm that all the Chinese LEDs so popular here don't keep half their lumen output for 10,000 hours let alone 50,000 or whatever they claim.

 

hell for 8 dollars a peice, just swap it out for a new chip before 10k hours. good god the transom on my boat will fall off befor i put 10k hours on a light...lol I want to fool with the ************ before i get the Blux.

 

Maybe I misspoke, the failure at 10,000 hours which it number totally pulled from my behind, the decrease in output is as soon as the junction temp goes up. The higher the junction temp the less lumen output. Ironically the warm white or amber spectrum is far more effected by higher temps. I'll post up some info I have later
I like this stuff, bit OCD about making them as good as possible, it's why I bought 80 dollar chips, I want 100% output