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Discussion Starter #1
So I finally have my fan table fabricated. Flange bearings both ends of the tube and heavy duty ring bearing sandwiched between the top flange and the mounting table. I believe I'm going to trim a bit more off the shaft and then start laying out the boat's fan platform.

I'm still trying to find some type of quick disconnect pin for the fan base section that lifts for folding down. Any ideas?



 

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I like the idea. And i have also been thinking of finding a way to do this. BUT. What engine are you planing to use. A normal 4stroke can't be laid on this side. It will smile and fail plugs after it lift it up.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have a Kohler Command Pro 25. I was thinking I might have to drain and transport my oil separately. Yes, a pain but I think worth it considering some trips may be up to 8 hours and easy access.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Got my hole cut out on my motor stand for my turntable steering sprocket and trial fitted the reinforcement ring beneath. It's now been primed and soon to get its camo base coat of cobblestone.




Next task is to fit and mount the drive sprocket, actuator, and relays. You guys will like my tensioner when I roll it out.




I decided as big as my boat is it was go big or don't go at all! I shopped for and found a 35 Vanguard with a 50 amp alternator ring built in.




Got a side mount muffler mounted and all the wiring figured out. We have ignition!




While shopping for Powerfin propeller I came across a 55" 3-blade Warp Drive at a great price.




So while it wasn't my first choice it did come with a 66T Flangeless Sprocket complete with stub shaft and bearings.




Which gave me what I needed to make my own belt reduction drive after some shopping on eBay and a little fab work. I'm at well less than half the cost of an ArrowProp reduction.




Time to get the shroud built and work my way towards getting all the additional mechanical and electrical done. Only a few weeks away now!
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Most of my parts have arrived and after several days of priming and painting I have been able to assemble some components to the boat.







 

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Discussion Starter #7
The wife is about to kill me. She wants the garage cleaned up and I'm working on the boat. I might need a place to stay!




 

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Discussion Starter #13 (Edited)
Held up right now waiting for machine shop to finish some work for me. Had to get away from the flanged bushing and have my sprocket milled for a collared bearing. Shop has taken my shaft and welded it within a 1/2 stainless plate cut using my old flange bearing as a template so all my slots I had already cut in my deck will work. Once they're done, it's on. Robert Thomas is working on my shroud now. We're building it with a 60" OD which I'm guessing will leave room for up to a 58-1/2" prop. I'm searching hard for a larger 4-blade powerfin but I have a 3-blade 55" Warp Drive to use until then. The deciding factor on that prop as a temp was that it had the 66 tooth idler sprocket that came with it. I ended up building my reduction drive for half of what I could buy one for. Once I get everything mounted, I'll pull the boat down to Robert's shop in Long Beach where we'll install the shroud before putting it in the water for sea trials.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Made a little progress today. Couldn't help but touch the actuator wires to a small battery a few times to test it out the steering linkage.



 

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This is kind of the setup im going to try and build this winter, just a rack and pinion style. in my mind i was thinking of making the table that the fan pedistal mounts to tilt. Elimanating taking off any steering componets being electrically controled. Do you see any issues in that now being built ?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I think having the hinge at the back of the table is an excellent idea. I toyed with it myself but decided I didn't want the table becoming another flat plane to catch wind when tilted. I haven't tried to tilt it since installing it but I believe all I have to do is release the tensioner and draw in the actuator as I push the drive sprocket towards the driven sprocket to get enough slack. The chain won't go anywhere being held up by the actuator. The plan is to mark chain links and sprocket teeth on both sprockets so I put it back together the same way each time.
 

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I think having the hinge at the back of the table is an excellent idea. I toyed with it myself but decided I didn't want the table becoming another flat plane to catch wind when tilted. I haven't tried to tilt it since installing it but I believe all I have to do is release the tensioner and draw in the actuator as I push the drive sprocket towards the driven sprocket to get enough slack. The chain won't go anywhere being held up by the actuator. The plan is to mark chain links and sprocket teeth on both sprockets so I put it back together the same way each time.
Just remember that you'll be doing it in the dark too.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Pulled the governor and all the linkage to it. Propeller pitch will govern engine. Cut the foot off the governor shaft and reinstalled it. Pulled governor off it's post on the crankcase cover, cleaned gasket up, applied new sealer, and put it all back together.





 

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Discussion Starter #19
Replaced the throttle linkage with a 1" travel 5lb Progressive Automations linear actuator. It's IP66 and will be beneath the breather so it should be good. That blob of F26 is helping secure the throttle rocker plate extension I used to increase the travel of that rocker plate from 1/2" to 1". I know it looks like crap!

 

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Im curious to see if that throttle is gonna be too fast. I had the same setup on the first kicker I did and it was TOUCHY! So much so that I had to get a different actuator. I know a fan is not the same, but it sucks when you barely touch the throttle and it goes full tilt right away.

Looks like you're on the right track overall.
 
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