[574yellowlab.1]

several of you have built a hull, some of you have carefully picked a hull for a specific reason. if a guy was to build/buy is there any reason to not build or buy a tunnel hull? I cant for the life of me think of a negative impact. and for that matter if your building a kicker boat why wouldn't you have a tunnel for the main motor and a tunnel for the kicker motor? Put both motors on a jack plate and tune the boat to the optimum performance. SOOOO why aren't any of the builds including a tunnel hull.. or two.

JD

 

[Payphone Jones]

There have been a couple try it. I'd like to try one myself some day. I've heard that even with a factory tunnel hull, cavitation can be an issue. Getting the vent to vent I've also heard can be the chits. I've thought something similar to an offshore outboard bracket might work just as well? I wouldn't think you'd need a tunnel for the kicker if it's on a jack plate, but I've been wrong before.

 

[574yellowlab.1]

I had a 150 etec on a 2072 seaark and a hydraulic jack plate. I could run really shallow but the float pods caused so much turblance that I had cavitation issues also. I don't know much about tunnels. hell I was just going to cut a 24" long taper 12" wide 6" deep at the transom. so your saying that wont work.

 

[Payphone Jones]

I never said it wouldn't work! I had a chance to buy one of the first SeaArk BXT 220's. It was a test boat, and heavily discounted. You could tell that the first half dozen attempts at the tunnel were failures. Lots of patchwork. I've looked everywhere for the formula, but nobody is sharing. Lots of the Texans on here have tunnel hull experience. Those might be your guys for this one.

 

[mudfish]

You need a vent in it to let air out.
You can see half pipe on tunnel.
The vent is in it.