Ive read posts on here of people making stainless steel shafts. They had weights well over 2000gns.

 

What poundage are you shooting? I've got my dad making a couple stainless steel arrows right now archer, I'll let you know how they do.

 

50 lb recurve and ~40 lb Diamond Razr Edge

 

:wave:
http://bow.fishingcountry.com/forums/showthread.php?74010-stainless-steel-arrows

 

4' is not really that deep. A plain white arrow should do that as long as your bow is tuned and you are tied to the back. Are you using a safety slide or tied to the back?

For deep water, I have an arrow design that is about 2200 grains and is much tougher than the other arrows out there that folks are complaining about.

 

I use a safety slide tied to an AMS Retriever. Should I be doing something other than the safety slide?

 

Tune is the first place to start, you need a straight flying arrow. with that poundage the arrows should go that deep no problem with a normal arrow. Try a AMS Chaos XL point with the barbs bent in closer to the shaft... also like Dirtydave said, slides and thick dacron line create a lot of resistance whereas the same bow with a spinner, thin line and tied to the back should cause the arrow to maintain its energy much longer

 

If you want a specialized arrow check out the RPM Davy Jones small diameter arrow

 

Man, I have a buddy that shoots a 50-60 lb recurve with a spinner and 200 lb FF. I can count on one hand how many fish from 4+ feet deep he has gotten in the boat. I just don't see it happening very often with a recurve and a retriever with big line unless you are shoot small, soft fish. Recurves are cool and fun to shoot but they just don't have the energy to sling a heavy fish arrow that deep in my opinion. A perfectly tuned arrow with 65 lb power pro from a spinner, maybe.

 

I agree. I can tell a big differance between my 50# recurve and my 40# osprey and wheel bows. The recurve just don't have as much a$$. Even though it's pulling more weight it's just not as efficient.

 

My favorite bow is my Martin Rebel, but like others said, it really doesn't have the punch that compounds do. With that said, if you are looking for a heavier stiffer arrow try this. Get a yellow jacket shaft which tends to be a bit stiffer than the yellow or white shafts. Next find an Easton aluminum 2213 shaft. You can often get them at archery ranges that have a lost and found bin of old odd arrows. My local shop charges $1 each for them and gives the money to the Boy Scouts.. Anyway, cut the tapered end of the aluminum shaft off. Put a little epoxy on the yellow jacket and slide it right inside the aluminum shaft pushing the taper of the yellow jacket just enough past the aluminum to get the nock on. On the other end, cut the yellow jacket about an 1" longer than the aluminum which will allow you to glue your point on. This creates a slightly heavier, but signficantly stiffer arrow. I actually prefer to shorten the whole package down to reduce flex depending on how much weight you actually need. For 4' shots, you really don't need that much weight, certainly not as much as a stainless steel arrow.

 

Good advice here ^^

 

Carbon infused arrows

 

No they won't fit but like garpwacker said, they do make the 22/64 which do fit over nicely. What I did initially though was to just put the slides lightly into a vice and run a drill through it to make it bigger. It worked, but the rough surfaces left after the drill made it slide kinda poorly. I had to take some aluminum oxide sandpaper (2000 wet/dry) and smooth the inside out. That worked OK, but the 22/64 slides worked much better. I actually stopped by my boat on the way home tonight to double check that I posted the right size Easton. For a change, my memory was right, they are 2213.