Its like the damn thing is welded!!

 

Any chance the line puller is what is used to put compression on the sleeves that hold the foot of the reel? It may just be bound up under the sleeves. Gentle tapping with a calibrated compression wrench might do the trick. Or just hit it with a hammer...:tu: seriously though, if it is a stainless steel reel foot and it is bound up under tension of the sleeves, it could be a bugger to try and break free just by hand. Careful tapping may free it up. Good luck!

 

Take a crescent wrench around the main shaft and tap on that to get the end piece off. They can be pretty tight. Once you get it off lightly sand the end of the shaft so the end comes off a little easier.

 

Yep, basically the same idea that I had, only your idea of using the crescent wrench to spread the force evenly around the sleeve will probably work better and result in much less chance of just smashing the reel (or a finger) like a hammer could. :clap:

 

when u beat this real off use some WD so it wont lock up again

 

Beat the hell out of it...:dh::spank:

Ya! Ya! Beat it off!! Huh...huh....uh huh huh....uh..huh huh..

 

I hit the one I had with a hammer and wrench. They're sturdy but a pain to change reels.

 

I tried a wrench and hammer and no luck. I just need the reel off so I can screw the sest into my bow. Still have some time to get it off before shooting starts

 

I tried a wrench and hammer and no luck. I just need the reel off so I can screw the seat into my bow. Still have some time to get it off before shooting starts

 

Beat the hell out of it...:dh::spank:

 

.

 

why dont you just screw it onto your bow with the reel on?

 

With that style seat the whole thing tightens against the riser, very solidly, but then the reel needs to go on second to make sure it is top dead center.

The newer version (last two years maybe) of the pro seat has the end cap relieved a little to fit the foot of the reel so it won't lock crazy tight like that. I have both version and just the regular alum endcap will need a good smack to release.

It might help to heat the cap...heat will expand metal slightly, so if you heat just the cap, it will expand radially a hair and make it easier to remove. Those cheap HF heat guns are very useful at times.

 

Sell th craze and buy a menace

 

I like my craze. But I miss my lever bows

 

Finally got the reel off the seat and everything on my bow. Thanks for the help guys. Now if only there wasn't a foot of ice everywhere

 

Try getting rid of that corn husker crap to start with lol

 

Nothing wrong with my husker logo

 

I'm definitely going to have to get used to the extra weight in the front. I think the reel weighs more than my bow. Can I do anything to make the reel seat shorter?

 

Soak it in paint thinner?

 

Those muzzies are heavy for sure. I cut one of my F&D seats shorter. It is all metal and a simple design without little parts to break. You can take about an inch off the back.

The threaded rod screwed into the aluminum round is fixed with superglue. Make a note of the length it sticks out from the seat.

Get a replacement stainless or grade 8 bolt with 2" or more of threads and a nut to go with it. I want to say the thread is 5/16-24 NF. With a vise and some care you might be able to back that threaded rod out without damaging it, but with a new bolt in hand you don't have to re-use the original and can use the bolt head to turn it in.

Now you can cut down the aluminum round off to the length you want. The rear foot holder is pinned through with a roll pin, so there is a limit to how much you can shorten it. An original F&D measures 1-3/4" behind roll pin. Should be able to cut off 1" and leave 3/4" for threads.

I don't know if the centered hole is already drilled deep enough, or if you will need to make the hole a little deeper to get the bolt in. Just don't drill the roll pin. Either way you should not need to tap threads since the steel threads of the new bolt will make their own threads in the aluminum as long as the drill hole is not too small.

When you are satisfied with depth, back the bolt out, put the nut on the bolt down to the head, then put superglue or loctite in on the tip of bolt and run it back into the seat. Then move the nut down toward the seat and cut off the bolt to the same length as the original threaded rod. Clean up/chamfer the cut, then use that nut to clean the threads while removing it.