Same thing happened to my 55 motorguide. Is yours a hand control with 5 spd? If so, mine was the same. They told me that it was not ment to run continuious on high. fryed mine twice. lost reverse. lost high then 4th two different times. The list goes on!

 

its a 5 speed foot control, so why would the little one burn up to?

 

Anybody have any suggestions?

 

Run the troller off the converter/batt/gen and then run a sep wire for the lights/batt/converter/genn im guessing you are runing the leds if not why are you using the converter to run the lights

 

I have a extension cord going from the genie to the first light then i ran a plug out of the light. It connects to another plug that goes to 2 more lights and so on the last light has a female plug that is what am plugging the converter into then i hook the converter up to a battery and then hook the troller to that same battery. there's 7 lights there 250watt metal halides.

 

I hope that's a really big cord because you have 2100 watts of lights + a converter on one cord.

 

U have to hav the converter goin straight from the genny to the batteries.
Genny-converter-battery then to the trolling motor

With the way u hav it hooked up u are making the electrical current go 2 different directions. And wen using 110v it's fighting each direction And then if everything is all hooked together then u are running off of the genny and the converter bypassing the batteries

 

You sure about all that? :cf:

 

Does the extension cord ever get a lil warm?

 

no the cords never get hot, but if i run the converter straight to the genie how do i hook the lights up?

 

I'm no expert, so somebody correct me if I'm wrong. Can 110vac 'fight against itself' and not short out? I don't think the converter is 'bypassing' the battery because of what is hooked up leading to the converter. You are running too hot of a load and probably exceeding the amp rating for the single cord running everything. If it were me (again, not an expert) I would separate the leads. Run one cord from the genny to your lights. Run a second cord from the genny to the converters, then to batteries, put in an in-line breaker/fuse, then to troller. Just for peace of mind, I used 2 8/3 double insulated cords with Anderson connectors and rigged it like I said above. I'd rather have too much copper and keep it cold than the other way around. It wasn't cheap, but neither is buying another couple trollers. Just my .02. Good luck brother!

 

Hey thanks Carp31, i really appreciate the advice.

 

No worries man

 

What size in-line fuse would I need for a 55lb minn kota troller and 55 amp powermax converter to be safe?

 

60 amp

 

I'd be afraid to recommend anything on the 55 because I don't know the max amp draw or which Powermaxx you have. OBG is the go-to guy for all things electrical and knows way more than I do, but for my 24vdc 82 pound digital troller I used a 50 amp resettable breaker, but that was before I added my two Powermax 60a converters. The PMs are fused too, so I plan to add a "push to rest" type breaker that is rated just below the Powermax fuse rating. That way I can sacrifice the inline breaker and not run through a million blade fuses in the event of an overload. In my mind, I think it would be easier to reset the inline breaker if it trips than have to swap fuses on the converter. This is just a little bit of experience and a lot of ******* logic, so OBG, If I'm off base then please correct me.

 

I'm sorry bro, I just re-read your post and saw that you are using a 55 amp converter. I would do the 50 amp resettable for your set up as well.

 

Awesome, thanks for the replies OBG and Carp!

 

I read it the wrong way. I apologize.

But is there a way to get a notification when somebody comments on a form that I hav commented on. That way it's not days later that I get on here and see post on the forms.

 

Go with what OBG recommended brother. He knows way more than I do about that stuff!