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This topic came up a month or two ago on facebook. Comes down to it I dont believe it matters but powermaxx does recommend running the converters in series
That was my opinion, it shouldn't matter.

I ran this scenario by our shop electrician and he said the opposite. I explained my setup, some stuff 12 and some stuff 24. He said one convertor per battery is correct because depending on what's on at any given time the batteries will be draining at different rates, therefore each convertor could accommodate each battery correctly.
 
That was my opinion, it shouldn't matter.

I ran this scenario by our shop electrician and he said the opposite. I explained my setup, some stuff 12 and some stuff 24. He said one convertor per battery is correct because depending on what's on at any given time the batteries will be draining at different rates, therefore each convertor could accommodate each battery correctly.
That's correct that's if you are using different voltages, but a straight 24v system with two 12v converters is what powermaxx is talking about
 
That's correct that's if you are using different voltages, but a straight 24v system with two 12v converters is what powermaxx is talking about
I also brought up that scenario, everything 24v. He said it still won't matter because even in series the batteries will discharge at different rates.

No two batteries, even brand new off the shelf, will discharge evenly. All things being equal.

I'm sticking with the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" theory.
 
I also brought up that scenario, everything 24v. He said it still won't matter because even in series the batteries will discharge at different rates.

No two batteries, even brand new off the shelf, will discharge evenly. All things being equal.

I'm sticking with the "if it ain't broke don't fix it" theory.
I ran my troller for the first time a couple weeks ago. 36v on 3 brand new identical batteries.
I topped them all off before running it. Only thing touching those batteries is the troller. When I checked them after running it my meter showed up to a 10% differnce between batteries. They were also only about half way discharged so if I drained them more the difference may be even higher.
 
Discussion starter · #25 · (Edited)
Okay, just got off the phone with WFCO, Iota, and PowerMax.

WFCO converters do not have have a "data bank" (if I'm quoting him correctly) in the units that would protect the units if we were to try and use them in series. WFCO says it is perfectly acceptable to charge 24V or 36V banks with one of their 12V converters hooked to each individual battery.

Iota says that not only can we connect their 12V converters in series but we could also connect their 24V converters in parallel to double the amperage. They did not seem to have a preference or recommendation as to which method would be best.

Graham of PowerMax also says that their 24V converters can be connected in parallel to double the amperage. He also claimed PowerMax to be the only brand that could be hooked up both in series and parallel. I did not try to correct him even having just spoken to Iota moments before.

It gonna guess there's actually 3 acceptable ways to hook these things up.

a) one 12V converter to each 12V battery matching pos and neg terminals and outputs (Iota, PowerMax, WFCO) (12V, 24V, 36V systems)
b) one 12V converters to each 12V battery with both converters and batteries wired in series with neg output and terminal of the 1st battery and converter of the series connected and the pos output and terminal of the last battery in the series connected. (Iota, PowerMax) (24 & 36V systems)
c) two 24V converters wired in parallel connected to a 24V bank of batteries with neg terminal of the 1st battery connected to the negative output of the 2nd converter and the pos terminal of the 2nd battery in the series connected to the pos output of the 2nd 24V converter. (Iota, PowerMax) (24V systems only)

There may be brands that you guys are familiar with or have converters from that you might call about.

The biggest benefit I can see to using a 24V charging system is so it can be paired with a 24V marine alternator to simplify switching between charging sources. I can't help but wonder if it's easier on the electronics of the converters since it need only monitor the single 24V bank rather than two 12V batteries in series. A couple of the charging tutorial websites like the one converter on one battery scenario especially if one battery within the 24v source is being used for the 12V house battery. If the amp draw of the 12V is higher than just a few amps all the sites suggest using a dc to dc converter because of the unbalanced battery bank issue that supposedly can harm electronics and the life of the batteries.

I suppose if my company's product could be used in series where most other brands couldn't then that might be my recommendation as well if it meant I would sell more.

P.S. Just found a real interesting ready by Iota: http://www.iotaengineering.com/pplib/Series_and_Parallel_Charging.pdf
 
I am just going to build my own 12 volt hi amp generator... Forget all that converter nonsense.
 
Skippy how has the testing # looking. It looks simple and smart
I have not built one yet... but Rambo uses one on his fan motor and we can run the LEDS and troller all night with no issues... I am not sure how much all his lights pull ... but its quite a bit. maybe he will chime in.
 
simple indeed, I have 2 powermax sitting for last 1.5 yrs. I run a cheap 100 amp summit racing alternator to a optima battery and my 24 LEDs drew 900w and 75 amps last year. im upping it this week to cover 1100 watts. the single wire alt makes power as needed. my volt meter for the set up reads 12.5- 15 volts throughout the night. im always more charged when I load the boat in the morning. no converter, no genny, no cords or switches to mess with. just power when i want it.



 
I have a chevy alternator I'd like to rig up with a predator motor like Skippy has pictured.
do it Gary. try to get a 3:1 pulley set up. you know you're gonna get a 2" pulley on any alt your gonna buy so get a 5-6" pulley for the motor. this will allow you to run the engine near idol and still make 2-3000 rpm on the alt. that way its quiet and always capable of making full power. add a cheap digital volt meter to the set up so you can always keep a eye on things. maybe get some rubber engine mounts to mount the motor on or the plate to the boat and it should be fairly quiet. think about it, a DC generator like this is cheap, light, quieter than a standard genny, and can be worked on cheap and easy too. plus there is no need to spend extra $ on converters, boxes, spare batteries, eat. for about $300 and 50lbs. to make 80-100 amps, its hard to beat DC power.



 
do it Gary. try to get a 3:1 pulley set up. you know you're gonna get a 2" pulley on any alt your gonna buy so get a 5-6" pulley for the motor. this will allow you to run the engine near idol and still make 2-3000 rpm on the alt. that way its quiet and always capable of making full power. add a cheap digital volt meter to the set up so you can always keep a eye on things. maybe get some rubber engine mounts to mount the motor on or the plate to the boat and it should be fairly quiet. think about it, a DC generator like this is cheap, light, quieter than a standard genny, and can be worked on cheap and easy too. plus there is no need to spend extra $ on converters, boxes, spare batteries, eat. for about $300 and 50lbs. to make 80-100 amps, its hard to beat DC power.
This is what I am gonna do because my boat is a 1448 and I dont want a bunch of weight in it. stick with all dc powered lights and troller and you cant beat it.
 
ok. So the alternator still needs to be hooked up to a battery tho am i right? And with 1 alternator is it possible to make 24-36 volt??
yes you need a battery, and you can charge 2-3 batteries off one alternator, just have to wire it to each battery individually. so that only 12 volts goes to each one.
 
yes you need a battery, and you can charge 2-3 batteries off one alternator, just have to wire it to each battery individually. so that only 12 volts goes to each one.
this seems sketchy to me, if one battery starts failing the alternator will cook the others not knowing their specific needs, right? and you will have to use diodes to isolate each battery because that would be series and parallel at the same time.
 
sorry didn't mean to hijack this thread. I find the hook up order very odd. not sure how it would increase battery life by putting power back in the battery opposite of draw. but anything is possible I guess.



 
this seems sketchy to me, if one battery starts failing the alternator will cook the others not knowing their specific needs, right?
does your car alternator cook your battery? no it kicks out at 14.5-15 v and rectifies at low voltage. should not hurt one battery over the other since it will create 12 v power to each individual battery. just make sure both terminal leads are the same size and length so both batteries are charged evenly.



 
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