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This was very interesting information. While not new to bow fishing ( 35 years ) I have 0% experience with night shooting. I fish around quite expensive homes on saltwater and was interested in LED's straight from batteries to eliminate pissing off the locals. Thanks for the time and effort in doing this testing.
 

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Discussion Starter #323
No problem guys! Hoping to get my hands on some of the higher wattage seelites and get some more numbers on these things to see how they do. Just gotta convince Seelite to hook me up and find the time to do it ;)
 

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Im trying to compare my 50w LEDs i got from dhgate. They have 21 fins in the back that are 1" long. Got for $35 each and have had 0 complaints about brightness. Based on specs i listed,what is most comparable light
 

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Is there any chance you could also do the testing with some HPS and Halogen lighting, just to get some comparisons for reference?
 

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Is there any chance you could also do the testing with some HPS and Halogen lighting, just to get some comparisons for reference?
I've been meaning to do further testing, just haven't had the chance to do so. It's also very easy to spend a lot of money on lights in a hurry for such a test. The last time around I relied on donations from sellers here on the forums.

With that said, I'd love to do more testing, and even have an idea for testing lights in water, but I really need the help of the people manufacturing/selling their lights to donate test samples, as I really don't want to spend several hundred $$ on lights for testing. I'd love to do more, but with the amount of time inviilved to test each light, it's hard to also justify the cost of these lights as they can get expensive.
 

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I've been meaning to do further testing, just haven't had the chance to do so. It's also very easy to spend a lot of money on lights in a hurry for such a test. The last time around I relied on donations from sellers here on the forums.

With that said, I'd love to do more testing, and even have an idea for testing lights in water, but I really need the help of the people manufacturing/selling their lights to donate test samples, as I really don't want to spend several hundred $$ on lights for testing. I'd love to do more, but with the amount of time inviilved to test each light, it's hard to also justify the cost of these lights as they can get expensive.
If you do another test I'll send you one of my $14- 48w, just to see where it ranks.
 

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If you do another test I'll send you one of my $14- 48w, just to see where it ranks.
I'll let you know if I fire up the test again. I still have the lights from the last test, but would really like to add a 80w and 100w seelite, along with a 300w halogen, and at least a 150w hps. I also have a garage that isn't packed full of crap yet that I can use to do more testing as well
 

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I wouldn't mind testing the seelites against other eBay/alibaba/chiwanese stuff
 

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I wouldn't mind testing the seelites against other eBay/alibaba/chiwanese stuff
I'm running 14 of the 48w leds, at first I didn't like them. I had to do a side by side comparison on the water with my buddies boat running 8- 150w hps. We literally tied our boats togeother to see the difference.

The only real difference was depth at distance, I felt like I could see deeper further off the boat with the hps, but right off the bow the difference was neglible.

That's why I want to send you one.
 

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Hey guys I am late to the party but been thinking about switching off of the 400 & 250w MH lights I am currently running. Would love to go purely 12 volt off the alternator if these LED lights put out enough.

I was hoping the chart would show the actual wattage rating since I have to guess on what wattage a $55 ebay light might be. Also would like to see the amp draw for each light and the plug type...12V, 24v, 110v, or 220v. Lastly it would be great to put on the chart a 500 watt halo just as a reference point. 500w halos is kind of the standard that most old guys like me compare to. Show the amp drive on that too which is why we want to run LED!
I have already found a big difference in drivers and LEDs that are rated at one thing but when you check the volts against the amps they are pulling they NOT CLOSE to what they claim to be. A good example of this is I was checking a 50w LED flood that Mudkat had me check and it is only putting out about 28watts. I put it on a cheapo 100watt driver and it still only did 42watts. I then put it on a 600watt step-up converter and it would still only pull about 45watts. I am guessing the ebay 50watt LED chip is just substandard POS. I realize you cannot test the amps coming off the driver since they are enclosed but at least show the amp draw to the driver.
Oh and add a column for flood or spot. I have seen some truly badass light bars but since most of them are spots they wont work for me.
Also noticed using a free lum app on my phone (yeah real scientific I know) that unless you are using spots that most LEDs that I have played with are seriously weak at 10ft and beyond. Again the "testing" I have done is just cheapo ebay lights but your chart definitely does help show off those real lights more.

Oh and a big THANK YOU for doing this. Mudkat and I were thinking of the same type comparison but we were going to use poles in the water for distance and depth that we could see. This really does help a lot!
 

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Hey guys I am late to the party but been thinking about switching off of the 400 & 250w MH lights I am currently running. Would love to go purely 12 volt off the alternator if these LED lights put out enough.

I was hoping the chart would show the actual wattage rating since I have to guess on what wattage a $55 ebay light might be. Also would like to see the amp draw for each light and the plug type...12V, 24v, 110v, or 220v. Lastly it would be great to put on the chart a 500 watt halo just as a reference point. 500w halos is kind of the standard that most old guys like me compare to. Show the amp drive on that too which is why we want to run LED!
I have already found a big difference in drivers and LEDs that are rated at one thing but when you check the volts against the amps they are pulling they NOT CLOSE to what they claim to be. A good example of this is I was checking a 50w LED flood that Mudkat had me check and it is only putting out about 28watts. I put it on a cheapo 100watt driver and it still only did 42watts. I then put it on a 600watt step-up converter and it would still only pull about 45watts. I am guessing the ebay 50watt LED chip is just substandard POS. I realize you cannot test the amps coming off the driver since they are enclosed but at least show the amp draw to the driver.
Oh and add a column for flood or spot. I have seen some truly badass light bars but since most of them are spots they wont work for me.
Also noticed using a free lum app on my phone (yeah real scientific I know) that unless you are using spots that most LEDs that I have played with are seriously weak at 10ft and beyond. Again the "testing" I have done is just cheapo ebay lights but your chart definitely does help show off those real lights more.

Oh and a big THANK YOU for doing this. Mudkat and I were thinking of the same type comparison but we were going to use poles in the water for distance and depth that we could see. This really does help a lot!
If you want to drive 30 minutes north you can take a look at my 100W HPS Seelites.
 

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Ok i actually had a second ebay light (one previously mentioned that had been previously purchased for our personal boat, its denoted by the approximate price that was paid for it. I only measured the cooling fins on the customfitz and seelite because they appeared to be slightly different in size which they were. Not sure what kind of a long term difference it will make, but I think the results are fairly self explanatory.

My ol lady colored up the chart in her own fashion as she helped me record the results so I hope yall like the colors ;)

Notes from the test was that the cheaper ebay light was by far the yellowist of all lights tested, followed by the customfitz 220. The rest of the lights all seemed to be close enough in color that I couldnt tell a difference. Testing outside of a white room may help see a noticeable difference in temp color, but I couldnt see one.

I'd like to give a HUGE thanks to Tim Jones, Customfitz (Chad) and Seelite (Caleb and crew) for sending lights to be tested :tu: for all of you just for "putting your money where your mouth is"

lastly I hope this helps everyone make an educated decision on the lights they purchase!
note: all testing was done with the same lux meter and the numbers are in lux x10

So i also did some reading up and purchased some cheap ebay lights. i went and bought quality drivers off ebay the same ones that custom flitz uses supposedly. I also researched and found the biggest heat sinks on the cheaper lights since i was just buying them for the housing also. I got 120v lights and drivers to convert them to 24v.

After watching this video that someone posted on my thread on bowfishing buy/sell/trade on fb. I am pretty convinced with a quality chip and driver you can save some serious money when outfitting a complete boat with these lights if you have the time and knowledge.

Here is a cheap driver video vs a quality flitz driver noticeable difference in light output.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m2bigrwoOw0

Garrett,

I would be curious to see what volts the driver is outputting to the led chip. Did you ever check that by chance?
 

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well i just picked up a lux meter. I am going to do some similar testing based off GBollom results. If i can get similar results then i can verify my meter against his results. I have access to 150w hps, 400w hps, 27w led light, 48w led light and rpm 50w warm white lights and some ebay 50w lights that i am going to be changing out drivers based off what custom fitz uses.
 

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well i just picked up a lux meter. I am going to do some similar testing based off GBollom results. If i can get similar results then i can verify my meter against his results. I have access to 150w hps, 400w hps, 27w led light, 48w led light and rpm 50w warm white lights and some ebay 50w lights that i am going to be changing out drivers based off what custom fitz uses.
Try some 500 watt halogen work lights if can get access to any also...
 

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Try some 500 watt halogen work lights if can get access to any also...
I actually think i have one of those in the garage so i should be able to try that out also. I am going to be getting my lux meter thursday. If all goes well i can get some testing done this weekend.
 
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