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I have my 8gauge wire ran into a distribution block and then 3 leads ran from it to the lights. i did the same with the + and -. The distribution block is in a waterproof box on the underside of the deck
 

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That should work for about 5-10 minutes or until the cigarette lighter plug in burns up.
Yep...Cig lighter rating, is usually a max of 15amp's. But they actually make lousy connectors and fail at the most inappropriate time. Like when your on the water at night. :re:
 

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I have my 8gauge wire ran into a distribution block and then 3 leads ran from it to the lights. i did the same with the + and -. The distribution block is in a waterproof box on the underside of the deck
Can you post pics of a diagram on what this looks like, What is a distribution box? and what kind of fuse do you use and switches and what order do they all get hooked up. thank you
 

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Discussion Starter #29
TTT since the search function is never used anymore
 

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redneck diagram

My 12volt setup is run as follows. I started at the battery box with two batteries connected with heavy gauge(2ga) battery cables from auto parts store. From there a push pull aux light switch from the auto parts store was mounted to the box. A wire from the positive post is run to the switch then to the fuse block at the bow of the boat. the negative wire is then connected to the neg batt post and run to the neg on the fuse block. I sourced a fuse block from bass pro that is marine grade with 12 banks I believe. (go smaller or bigger for how many lights you are running but I wanted room to expand if desired later on) i also got a trolling motor quick connect mounted at my front deck so I can remove my rail but not the entire wiring system. light wiring is pretty straight forward. one to a positive bank one to a negative until all lights are run. as others have stated you need to get proper gauge wire for how much amperage you will be pulling. My 27w lights pull 2 amps each give or take so I run 12 ga for each light and used a heavy duty outdoor extension cord for my main feed. it is 6 ga. You will have to get fuses for the fuse block but it's best that way because different lights will require a different size fuse. I also used all butt connectors and eye connectors for splices and connecting to the fuse block that where heat shrink. My best advice is take your time do it right and make it clean. Your results will be much nicer. I've seen some hacked up wiring that is twisted together and they worked but it shows there is no pride and is an eye sore for someone with ocd about spaghetti wiring. I'm also by no means a master electrician but have learned things the hard way and ended up redoing work in the dark because it wasn't done right the first time. I'm also welcome to criticism.

Craig Foster
 

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I just wired all my 50w LEDs the same way. Tured out nice and clean.
 

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I'm in the process of wiring my new build now and am wondering if I ground the battery to the boat can I then ground my lights to the boat as well?
 

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I'm in the process of wiring my new build now and am wondering if I ground the battery to the boat can I then ground my lights to the boat as well?
Don't do it , it can and will cause electrolysis and eat up your boat. Always run everything back to the battery or a power strip/ power buss bar / fuse block with your 12v hot and grounds..
 

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I would use a ckt breaker. It will not disable the whole rig. If it trips it will be out for about a minute then pop back in. Those fuse blocks don't like corrosion.
 
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