I can't help with your question.....sorry, I just move my rest also and figured it was good enough. I noticed your signature line and that's why I replied, a few weeks ago long story short my Oneida went in the lake, guess where I went? After about 20 min dragging my feet around in about 4 ft of muddy water, back in the bushes, in the dark, I finally got back in the boat, bow in hand.

 

haha thats awesome! same thing happened to mein about five feet of water thank god it was a clear lake and a short swim. I'm paranoid as hell about my bow takin a swim in a river though...

 

Adjust whichever is easier-same effect in the end.

 

I'm new to this but I would think you would want the nock exactly centered on the string and then adjust the rest. If it wasn't centered, wouldn't it flick a lil from the string being a different length on either side, slight, but still a difference. :cf:

 

That shouldnt make a difference. In all my years of tuning all kinds of bows, Ive never seen or heard of any tuning technique that requires the nock to be centered in the middle of the bowstring.

 

On most bows,you line the arrow up with center of the "Berger button" hole or the hole in riser where you mount the rest. That's why you use bow square on the string and then put your nocks whatever amount you want to go above center by using the measurement marks on the square...I wouldn't raise the rest if way above the center of that hole,but the nock point will be about 1/4"-1/2" above center of that hole when use a bow square and not necessarily the exact center of the string

 

Using a bow square I normally set my nock between a 1/4 and 3/8s above center, been doing it that way since the 70s

 

Garp, thats exactly what I needed to know, thanks.

 

If you shoot fingers you should actually be nock high.

 

Like I said , i had no idea, just seemed like the thing to do...?

 

Idk I've always just moved the rest down so that the arrows got a little bit of an inline to it, which has worked, I'm just asking cuz shooting actual bullet holes would give me a lot more power and accuracy. my bows in tiller and the timings fine i know that

 

Shooting safety slides?

 

yep, I gave ttb a try once this season and it just was too much of a hastle and took too much time to reload plus having to make sure my line was always clear of getting cautght on something. plus I havent lost an arrow all year with my spinner safety slide combo.

 

well you will always get more splash when using safety slides. Bet if you tied to the back you would have your bullet hole

 

When shooting fingers, you always want your rest as close to the shelf as possible and then you should move your nock point about 3/8" to 1/2" nock high, then fine tune by shooting in the water with your arrow to get it where theres no splash when the arrow hits the water and the goes straight when going through the water.

 

Just wondering this the other day as I was putting on my new bowstring.. Thanks all you people smarter than me for the help

 

I always mount my rest down as low as possible and against the riser to prevent it from moving, then I do all my vertical adjustments with my nock point. Just open the nock slightly so it will turn on the string but not slide up and down and you can thread the nock point up and down the string incrementally by just twisting the nock point until you get the arrow flying good and flat then clamp the nock pt. down and it is set.
Most bows I have seen always seem to have the nock pt. much too low and do not be afraid to move it really high, in fact start out really high then work your way down to avoid getting inconsistent readings from the arrow slamming into the rest. Good luck

 

Another thing, I'm seeing the new craze of rests that are just a trough for the arrow and seem to fit perfectly on the riser. Is there no adjusting the rest? Cuz I've got quick draws on my bows and theyre the main reason I went back to using safety slides the reload was just so much quicker and with the quickdraw I can see a lot of room for error when it comes to tttb and accidentally leaving the string where it'll get caught somewhere on the rest.

 

Mark and Bryan are spot on. Getting the rest low goes back to the days of instinctive shooting long bows and such.
Gets the arrow as close to the top of your fist as possible. Then the instinctive part is easier because it's more like
pointing your finger. Also, like Mark mentions, the tighter your rest is to the riser the less likely it is to be "knocked" around.

 

so I should get some kinda shelf rest to go right on my riser? help with consistency AND being able to tttb?