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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello I recently bought a bare hull 1860 riveted polar kraft. I just got it in the garage finally. Im a little stumped on how I can strengthen the flex of the whole boat.

Here's the problem, when I pick up the front left side of the boat, it lifts 2.5" before the back left side of the boat will start lifting up. If that makes sense. I feel it is too flexible and could cause cracks in the future.

I only have 1800 into it so I don't mind putting a little bit of money into it but would like to keep it under a grand.

My thought was to make side benches around both sides that could work as a walk around too. Also I'm going to put a full floor in it. The floor supports are shaped in a small v so I was thinking about running 2x2x1/4 angle on the floor supports and putting a brace in the center where there'd be about a 2" gap. Gluing and riveting the floor down with structural glue and structural rivets.

The front deck is crap. But I don't know how to take it out and how to tie into the sides for a heavier duty front deck. Also if you go a foot behind the front deck the gunnels have a 1/4" flex. It has 24" sides and I've seen boats with higher supports up the sides. I assume that is to take the flex out of the gunnels.

My concern is that if I build a deck and lay it on the gunnels it will possibly stress Crack the sides. Let me know what you guys think besides "scrap it" or "buy new"
Thanks! Here's the pics
 

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It looks to me like a bench seat has already been removed. In your last pic you'll see there are three ribs that are much larger than the one that follows them. A bench seat was in this spot and that's why you can twist it. If you do what you're suggesting in your post you shouldn't have a problem with flexing. The transom has been hacked. You'll need to address this first. The wood has been removed and just that one piece of metal (aluminum?) that runs across the transom is supposed to support an outboard? I don't think so. That's trouble looking for a place to happen.
 

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Putting the floor in it will probably stiffen it up a lot but hopefully someone with more boat building experience will chime in
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Yeah eshaw you are right. The rear bench was cut out and 2 1x2x1/8" tubes were welded to the side horizontaly and that 1/8" plate welded on top of that.

Transom wood is still in but is surrounded by aluminum so it appears that it's 1 piece of aluminum but it's actually 2 with the wood in the middle. But I agree with you, the transom is shot and dangerous!

Thanks garp! I hope to see you on the water one day to get my $100! If the offer still stands...
 

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Yeah eshaw you are right. The rear bench was cut out and 2 1x2x1/8" tubes were welded to the side horizontaly and that 1/8" plate welded on top of that.

Transom wood is still in but is surrounded by aluminum so it appears that it's 1 piece of aluminum but it's actually 2 with the wood in the middle. But I agree with you, the transom is shot and dangerous!

Thanks garp! I hope to see you on the water one day to get my $100! If the offer still stands...

Offer will likely stand, will start it up beginning of this year, fired the boat up Christmas Day water pump peeing and troller batteries on charge,been using the gennie with work,and lights are all working, looking forward to spring and plan start chasing snakeheads come March
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Over 80 holes in the transom and it's tweaked in the center... Might be replacing it, we'll see.
Automotive exterior Bumper

First weld with the new welder
Metal

Second weld I heated to 200 degrees (used an infrared thermometer) definitely better starting penetration. First weld I was too close and at the end I melted my tip into the puddle
Tree Canoe birch Plant Wood Trunk
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Lincoln 180 with a magnum 100 spool gun. It says it maxes out at 1/4" so I'm sure it'll be good for anything boat related. I'm surprised, it's probably the cheapest way to mig aluminum and it seems to weld decent enough on the think scrap I have. We'll see how it does on 1/8" material
 

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Watch how you end your welds. Looks like some pretty good crater cracks there. That = a leak if it's on your hull. If you run back into your weld a little and bring your tip out of it a bit before you kill the juice, it'll help things along a little. A TIG unit would be way more easier on that transom patch job!:D You'll be a pro in no time.
 
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