I got the new fannman rest for my osprey and i cannot get it to shoot strait yet... I started out at center with the nock and moved it up and down in the tiniest incraments and no matter what its shooting Nock high .... i am really getting discouraged and need some help... i have set up fish hooks, wave rests, hydroglides with not problems but i cannot get this to work....HELP!!!!!!!:headbang:
Needing help with Fannman rest
Skippy
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True and good info.
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Here's how I do mine.I shoot different draw weights for different situations.So, I set my draw weight right in the middle of the weight range I plan to shoot and tune it right there.That will give me a little leeway if I set the poundage up or down from there and that has worked out good for me.
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im not sure about the tuning being different for a retriever and a spinner TTG. ive shot both mr brothers bows and all three of my bows with both spinners and retrievers and never had a problem. never changed the center shot or anything. the only time i have to re-tune is if i start shooting with a release
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I wish someone had told me this earlier.It would have save me a lot of time and headache of making new rests.:laugh:
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lol TTG im right handed too. not sayin your wrong i was just goin off my own experience
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I tell ya' what.My Osprey is driving tacks right now with an epoxy rest and a spinner.Tomorrow I'll put the retriever on it and try to tune it by adjusting the nock height and I'll post up the results.
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we dont shoot epoxy rests either.
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what is a qd???? lol the man done said he tried....fish hooks, wave rests, hydroglides so what good will a quick draw do. last he said he can get plain white shafts to shoot bullet holes... just not his Yellow Jackets.
I would love to see this bow setup and shoot it myself with the Fanman rest (which I think is freakin awesome) but I think Azurite is just as picky as I am when it comes to how my bow is shooting. I build my own epoxy rests for all my bows BUT if I ever purchased a rest it will be a Fanman. I just like that style and simplicity of rest, no moving chit. My bows shoot bullet holes in paper with my homemade chit for 5 dolla too
Azurite I wish I had some idea of what the hell you got going on but looks like pretty much everything has been covered here. all I can say is good luck bro and hope you get it figured out man
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What rests do you shoot then?:cf:
:laugh: That's what I was thinking too.I bought one and would have threw it away but I wound up giving it away instead.I have a Fanman on order and it will be coming soon as they get one made for us backwards shooters.:tu:
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:laugh:That's probably right.If that's the case then he'll figure it out once he sobers up.
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backwards shooters LOL....my wife is a lefty too but I taught her to shoot the "right" way.
you actually bought one of those "rests" ???
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Yeah I know.It wasn't a smart move on my part that's for sure.
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wave rests on my recurve and bear. got a fish hook on my golden eagle. my brother has a quick draw on his aeroforce X80 ond a wave rest on his cuda
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Ahahahah... maybe that is it! i shoulda bought the left hand version....
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Use a t-square to set your nocking point but you must be sure the timing is set correctly on the bow before you even begin.
1/2in high is just a starting point for you, with a split finger release you might get it to shoot at 1/2in high but 3-under will require more nock height and would not be suprised if you had to go 3/4in nock high or more. Also finger pressure on the string can affect it as well. If you put alot of pressure on your ring finger then the nock pt needs to be a little higher. Have to release the same way everytime.
Since a low nock position will cause the nock end of the arrow to kick or launch off the rest I would suggest going up to 1in nock high and then start working your way down. Never start out low and work up, always start very high and work your way down.
Nock low on the string will cause excessive contact with the rest and can give you a L or R kick in your arrow as well, so start very high and work down and you should be able to get it. Good luck!
1/2in high is just a starting point for you, with a split finger release you might get it to shoot at 1/2in high but 3-under will require more nock height and would not be suprised if you had to go 3/4in nock high or more. Also finger pressure on the string can affect it as well. If you put alot of pressure on your ring finger then the nock pt needs to be a little higher. Have to release the same way everytime.
Since a low nock position will cause the nock end of the arrow to kick or launch off the rest I would suggest going up to 1in nock high and then start working your way down. Never start out low and work up, always start very high and work your way down.
Nock low on the string will cause excessive contact with the rest and can give you a L or R kick in your arrow as well, so start very high and work down and you should be able to get it. Good luck!
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I just got done shooting mine.I shoot split fingered, one over and two under.The best results for me was a 3/8" high nocking point.That height eliminated both high and low nock impacts but it didn't eliminate the tail left impacts.No matter what I did it would always impact tail left.That indicates just exactly what predicted that the centershot is off and needs to be moved closer to the riser.Okay I win so what do I get?
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This may be true but this does not explain my up and down issue with only certain arrows.
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