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If you want to get meaningful feedback on this - answer us a few questions

what is the water clarity like?

do you already have a generator, if not what do you plan to get?

What is your budget?

Do you plan to run a trolling motor with converters?



Nice rig!
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Yea I will drink all that beer, only have a small beer fridge...

The water here in Kansas is pretty murky at times and I was planning on getting LEDs and running just off batteries since I have all of my old ones from the other boat. My next question to you guys would about a trolling motor. What size will move this barge and pros and cons of 12 and 24 volt.
 

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Payphone Jones has a slick set up for fishing and BowFishing combo
 

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For a removable deck I would checkout the basspro tracker grizzly style factory bowfishing deck that is secured with transom ratchet straps. I would build a light rail that was secured to the boat the same way as the tracker grizzly deck except only have a light rail with flush deck. For lights I would not even think about trying to run both a trolling motor and leds off of batteries. Trolling motor wont have enough power and the lights either wont last long enough or you wont be able to run enough of them. Personally I would go with 6 - 250w hps digital ballast, 80lb thrust 24v troller, 2 powermax converters, and 2 champion 2000w inverter generators. If you want to go with leds then go with about 10 - 50w hps or warm white color with the same troller and power supply setup as I mentioned above.
 

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For troller- as said 24volt 80# thrust as minimum IMO for run time and power to not have to be on high 100% of time.

If you plan to run converters off a gennie to keep trolling motor batteries charged or to keep batteries for lights charged I would then plan on running 120v lights either led's for least amount of power draw or like said also (6) 250w HPS lights would be a good choice, but is stupid to me to run lights on batteries then a gennie also to keep batteries charged. The (2) powermax 55 will draw about 1,500 watts at full output, and if ran 120v 50watt LED's warm white could run a bunch 10-12 or so but would look into a single Yamaha 2400 watt gennie for best single quiet gennie setup or could run HPS with powermax converters and if don't mind the louder gennie a 3,500/4,000 watt champion gennie could run the whole setup for about a $300 gennie
 

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1.) 50W LEDs in warm white color run off generator. if they are 12V get a converter. I used to run mine off batteries and since making the switch to a Honda I'd NEVER go back to batteries

2.) aluminum frame that runs the top rail and can be secured with bolts to the track system (very easy to do, look at seaark's webpage for ideas on how to mount)

3.) Hand control troller. you can get away with a 70lb thrust on an 1860, especially with only a 50hp on the back. Be sure to get a 24V system. Use your old LED batteries to start. If they are burnt out, find your local Interstate Battery store and get the group 31 blems. You will get $25 per battery for your current ones on core deposits. Each group 31 will cost approx. $40 after core deposit discount.
 

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For troller- as said 24volt 80# thrust as minimum IMO for run time and power to not have to be on high 100% of time.

If you plan to run converters off a gennie to keep trolling motor batteries charged or to keep batteries for lights charged I would then plan on running 120v lights either led's for least amount of power draw or like said also (6) 250w HPS lights would be a good choice, but is stupid to me to run lights on batteries then a gennie also to keep batteries charged. The (2) powermax 55 will draw about 1,500 watts at full output, and if ran 120v 50watt LED's warm white could run a bunch 10-12 or so but would look into a single Yamaha 2400 watt gennie for best single quiet gennie setup or could run HPS with powermax converters and if don't mind the louder gennie a 3,500/4,000 watt champion gennie could run the whole setup for about a $300 gennie
Similar setup to what i have on my 1754. 10 50 watt leds(24v) and a 70# troller. Ran off 2 batteries with 2 75 amp powermax's and a 2400 Watt yamaha. Made my deck removable, although its a little heavy for just a couple guys to get off.

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Discussion Starter #13
Alright I have my railing in progress and a trolling motor on order. I was going to go with 48w led lights. My question is how many would get the job done? Also how high should I hang the rails and light under rail or on top of the rail.
 

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Hang them from the bottom of your rail. Use rivnuts to attach the legs of your rail to the gunnels, and you can have them off in two minutes. I've got pictures if you want em, but it looks like you've got things under control. Looking good!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Yea that's what I was planning on using the t lock that's in the railing of the boat. I just didn't know pros and cons in which direction to mount the lights. My old boat they were above the railing but they were mounted flush so they would occasionally take a beating so was leaning more towards under that way the bar could take more beating. Hopefully by next weekend he have fish in the boat
 

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Alright I have my railing in progress and a trolling motor on order. I was going to go with 48w led lights. My question is how many would get the job done? Also how high should I hang the rails and light under rail or on top of the rail.
I sure hope you're going to move that gas can before start welding
 

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The more pointed towards the water you lights are the better off you are. All lights (flood/spot) have a cone of light that is projected. You will need to figure how your particular lights perform.

Personally I have mine hanging from a 12" railing. I wish I had them 6-12" higher so I didn't waste as much light on the shore.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
So here's the latest progress. Lights aren't in permanent places yet so invent get them wired I'll probably move some around. Gonna have the front two which are spots on a separate switch and each side as well. The ends are spots and middle four on each side are floods. Any thoughts other than if you can spot some crappy welds that are going to get fixed
 

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