caint help but dream of a 1672 x.125. dry hull estimate 693lbs but would float 3045lbs total and only get 8" deep. with 500lb 4 strokes, fan, fuel cell, batteries, lights ect. it would be easy to hit 2500lb though.
looking at the rest of the numbers 1000lbs of displacement difference between a 16 and a 20. although im not sure why there is 600lb dif between the 16 and 18. and the 18-20 is only 350. the rate of displacement I guess.

 

When your doing your Calcs are you figuring actual displacement or Coast Guard Rated Safe displacement?

I think most folks would be surprised how much actual displacement a small 1448 actually has.

 

if you do the math on a set of pods (witch ive never done before) it will tell you what kind of weight your gonna displace.

avg size pods are lets say 20x24 and if they sit 10" deep then 20x24x10"=4800in^3. convert it to cubic ft= 2.78
2.78x 62.4lb = 173.5lbs so a avg set of pods will allow you to move 173.5lbs from the front of the boat to the rear and it will allow for another shooter on the front deck without sitting lower.

 

seaArk their MV jons with .125hulls
........... 1872mv weighs 625.
...........2072mv.........775. ........but these weights are for 28" deep sides.


now looking at alwed .100 hulls. with 25" sides
.......1870 is 585lb
........2070 is 645lb
they make a 1670 but hull and they have hulls with 29"sides but they aren't on their spread sheeet
sooo I guess in not to far off on hull weights. maybe a little heavy on the 16 and a little light on the 20s.

 

looking at those factory numbers a 20 only weighs 150lbs more than a 18 but according to my displacement math it will float 350 more lbs.

-- I guess their truly is "no replacement for displacement." although im not sure where I can get some hard .190 hull numbers we can guess. a 3/16 hull is tough and if it only weights 180lbs more it truly is the best choice. And for the guys that have built 3/16bottom with 1/8" sides it looks like a very good choice too. toughness where you need it and weight where it matters.

 

I agree.

 

thinking about the perfect fan boat but its hard. the smaller the boat the more nimble, the bigger the boat the higher it will float. but on the other hand the bigger the hull the more it weighs and the more hp it requires. this was the whole reason for all the math. biggest problem is a 16' boat requires all the things a bigger boat does. guess the biggest gains in stability and displacement is width not necessarily length.
back to the math. . . .wonder if a 1680 sits higher in the water than a 1872? or some more common hull comparisons a 1672 vs a 1860.. . . . this may take a while.

 

Sooooo are you just rambling here? If you're looking for another boat thinking logically will get you to a decision faster than looking at a calculator.

Displacement and bowfishing suitability are two different subjects. An 8048 will have more displacement than a 1672 but is useless as a bowfishing boat. Stability and ability to haul a load are the two biggest factors. So you want a wide boat with tall sides. Length adds floor space and some load capacity, but isn't the biggest factor. Why do draft calculations when your boat no longer sits level because it is loaded with equipment and people? Think about how many people you like to fish, how many fish you're planning on shooting, and type of water you shoot most often.

 

good point although draft to me is very important. to me it separates the avg hull from the most capable. its all to get skinny. yes its to haul more weight but simply deeper sides will do that safer. getting a boat to sit level no matter what its length and weight is a art form. every boat can be adjusted to sit level.

 

I agree with kingcan-toss the calculator in the toilet. You're over thinking things brother.

Why are you obsessed with shallow draft? Most BIG fish I've shot have been in 2-4ft of water. Skinny water usually equals skinny fish. Unless you're talking a numbers tourny, in which case you'll get spanked by airboats 90% of the time.

To cover all bases, you really need several boats. That's not reality for most of us though, so get what fits your needs and style best. For me that's an 1872 kicker rig, with distant future plans for a 2 man mini airboat for local marshes. Itlł be different for everyone though. But general use, with a troller, fan, or kicker, 1872 is hard to beat.

 

Come to MD to shoot snake heads, they live on the banks in the shallows and the tides here can suck. Thinking im going with a fan for next year.

 

actually KINGCAN- you bring up a good point after sitting here I realized I never really made it clear my intentions for doing the math. your right I didn't bring up or make any real point. so here goes.

you think about a bowfishing boat you need width for stability and depth for safety. but also you need to think about water depth it will float a load in, trailering weights, trollingmotor stress, layout, prop or jet, ect. This is some of the things going through my mind as I dream of a bigger craft. I don't want it huge but safe and capable. I know a typical guy would just go buy the biggest he could afford but I was gonna put all my cards on the table on this one and think about every single detail. basis and rules of engagement is fan boat that floats skinny and handles deep water well. deep sides, large hp, that runs 40 empty and 30 loaded no mater what.

 

What you describe then is a 1872, with a 3/16 flat bottom, with 1/8 sides 28-30" tall, with a 150hp, pods, and a sizable fan.

Now go buy/build it

 

lol yes it sure looks that way don't it. ill need you to come help me with poly.

 

Why Yall talking about 72 floor and 102 beam.
My airboat is 84 floor and 98 beam.
:co:

 

Why Yall talking about 72 floor and 102 beam.
My airboat is 84 floor and 98 beam.
:co:

 

102 is the widest allowed down the road. IMO the additional slope in the sides will add to the displacement and creating a slower rate of sink for every lb. added. only reason I was doing 72" math was to include the whole community in on the conversation. very few would be able to comment on a 84" wide barge. but I realize most have no idea what their boat even weighs.

 

We don't require super skinny draft in our lakes, and a boat that is to big is to difficult to turn around when we nose into tight coves.

My partner has an 1860 Prodigy with a mod motor hanging off the back, I can't tell ya how many times we've had to push pole backwards to get out. Where as my 16' with the outboard lifted out of the water was able to turn around and troll out.

I don't need more than 16', I just wish my boat was wider than 44". I kept everything as lite as possible and we regularly troll through 8" of water.

You have to appreciate Rambo's analytical aproach to these things. At a minimum it gets a good debate going.

 

Don't put poly on that fan. Then your weight issue goes off the charts. Just paint it with gator glide or something like that.

 

Idk the facts to it. But I've seen/heard that poly is neutrally buoyant. Yes it's heavy, but if the boat is in the water, the poly that is actually in the water adds no weight. I guess itMakes sense seems like

 

yea I probably wouldn't. could not bring myself to drill 700 holes. just want to protect my investment. my .125 hull does good. but its got a few gouges in it. I wouldn't have a .100 with a fan.

 

Gary- what ever happened to your homemade toon? I'd like that on a little bigger scale.

 

Sitting in the yard, my wife wants me to sell it to my duck hunting buddy who want to use it as a towed in blind. But it's got sentimental value so I'm having a hard time parting with it.

 

If you want a wide stable boat that can haul a load and has the potential to fish 3" of water get a blow boat - there's a reason people want them and are willing to spend ungodly amounts of money to own one.

Bowfishing isn't rocket science and adding hours of thought to get 1/4" shallower won't get you any closer to fish. And honestly you won't notice that difference when you're on the water, ESPECIALLY with a fan boat. If I was to build a fan boat I'd be more concerned with having enough power to keep moving shallow with a load of fish. That is a pusher fan's greatest downfall (besides noise). You can get to shallow fish when you're empty, but once you've killed a few the fan can't push enough bottom to keep you fishing. Maybe decide on a boat size and then put your calculator to work on thrust numbers to figure out what motor/reduction/prop combo will suit your needs.

 

Air boat problem solved you can get where the fish are not dry land. No more thinking necessary.

 

I also run the Ohio. and that's why I want a upgraded hull. my current rig shines in the shallows but out in big water its heavy, underpowered, and a bit small. sorry ive annoyed a few of you. maybe you're right, maybe I'm over thinking the whole thing. but there's the smallest chance I learn something cuz nobody else ever took the time to plan the whole thing. if and when I'm done it may not be a epic victory, as long as it does better than any other boat ive ever seen, only then will I be truly happy. yes I can build, wire, weld, tune a fan and a outboard. but it would very easily just be another boat, I want more.

 

Dont apologize, they don't have to continue reading, they are making a choice.

I don't think perfection is atainible, once you figure out this perfect boat on paper and build it you'll soon discover something you'd like to change.

A person prone to tinkering cannot help themselves, they must always tinker.

 

oh yes every product I buy whether its a camouflaging or adding my own little perfections to it. I tinker; I have a sickness, but the way of the world is make things cheap so its marketable and yields the highest profit. so I tinker things into perfection or I build them myself.

 

Right there with ya bro, can't leave anything alone.

I don't think this question can be solved with math, I think you'd be better off hoping in as many people's boats as possible. Then use those experiences to formulate an opinion on what's best for your paticular needs.

 

bowfishing will lead to tinkering!!

 

Ive got a 20/84 with 36 inch sides its 102 beam its like a bobber it will almost run dry with the troller lol it drafts in 8 inches easy with 3 guys and several hundred pounds of fish . Ive got a 200 hp mercury on it and it will run 40 plus loaded with fish and an easy 45 with 4 people and no fish .

 

Ive got a 20/84 with 36 inch sides its 102 beam

...:shh:

 

I wouldn't apologize Rambo. I for one love the calcs and thought put into something like this.

 

thanks for the support. I think everyone would like to see numbers for common boat sizes. it just takes a while to do all the figures. I still think it will be beneficial in the long run.

 

the displacement theory is the reason I went 24' long. 72" bottom... hull weight of 986 lbs, .125 thickness I draft 8" with a full load of fish and 4 guys...as long as the channel is 25' wide ill get it turned around. last weekend I was on a 1756 and we could barely get into 1 foot of water. after we filled the fish tub it was outright dangerous going across the lake. maybe im lacking brass, but I have swam before and I don't intend on doing it again. theorys fail, opinions stink,, math never lies

 

THANK YOU!!!!!!! this was the response I was looking for! and your experience backs up my theory. have any idea what the fully set up boat weighs ?