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no replacement of displacement? perfect size/ least draft

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21K views 199 replies 34 participants last post by  JPHolla  
#1 · (Edited)
So I love to get skinny. and we can all agree there are way to many factors to take into account when building a boat from scratch. but this is my estimate for boat size vs. hull thickness. Now for guys who like to get into the least amount of water possible there is no replacement of displacement. basically extra wide and light weight, but if you want it to last very long it better be tough. if you run in rocks, logs, or a river setting where you might find yourself on a dumped piece of steel you better hope you've got a thick enough hull to stand up to the torcher.

For this theory/ draft estimate I will be comparing 3 hulls and 3 different hull thicknesses. all boats will have 32" deep sides and 72" floor with a 102"beam. keep in mind the density of fresh water requires 62.4sq/ft^3. so for every cubic ft of displacement it will float 62.4lbs.

displacements @ 8" deep.
1672-48.8 ft^3
1872-58.6 ft^3
2072-65.6 ft^3

given these displacement estimates multiply by 62.4lbs
1672-3045#
1872-3657#
2072-4094#

this means that every hull will displace that amount of weight @ 8" deep.

now lets explore hull weights. we all know most boats are .100 but a few make a .125 hull and evry once in a great while you will find a .190 witch one is best?
for these examples I estimated sqft of hull skin then multiplied by what each thickness of material weights. to keep it simple I divided total sqft and converted to how many 4x8' sheets each requires.

all weights are for 5052 aluminum sheet .100-45.7lb --- .125-57lb --- .190-84lb
16'= 5.36 sheets ---- ---- .100/ 245lbs ---- .125/ 306lbs ---- .190/ 451lbs
18'=6.01sheets ---- ---- .100/ 275 ---- .125/ 343 ---- .190/ 505
20'=6.67sheets ---- ---- .100/ 305 ---- .125/ 381 ---- .190/ 561

now that's just the skin, no frame work. So I come up with a flat rate to estimate interiors.
.100skin add 500lbs for frame work and interior of a 20' boat. for 18' on each thickness I will subtract 50# and for 16' subtract 100#

boat length- 16' 18' 20'
.100 245/645 275/725 305/805
.125 306/606 343/693 381/781
.190 451/651 505/755 561/861

^^^that is skin weight / full hull weight with interior.^^^

I come up with that rate of interior framing with the thought that the thinner the material the more frame work required. I may have went a little heavy, you decide.

so what is the best hull? would love to hear your opinion even if you don't like the last section about interior weight and think it might be off.



 
#39 ·
Are you taking the length of the rake into consideration for those calculations?
 
#47 ·
Some people just freak out when they see the word math! haha. I dont blame you for planning ahead.
 
#48 ·
I tried searching and couldn't find the thread where Brady's truck, pretty sure it was Brady, got stuck on an island during a flood. And the brought it a fairly good sized Jon and got the truck back to dry land.

How big was that boat, good demonstration on how much weight you can stack on a boat.
 
#54 ·
I have read all through this and Rambo I believe your onto something with the math to build the "perfect" boat. But perfect for what application? I mean we all fish different locations and different terrain. I have fished off pretty much every boat and every size you possibly can and they all work good for specifics circumstances. Yes the airboat will get in some very skinny water to shoot numbers but we have guys in fan boats beat the airboats regular here. So technically the airboats here just have the advantage to cross dry ground to get to holes that can't be fished otherwise. I personally shoot off a fan boat and love it. It's what works best for me. I can get in some real skinny water but at the same time get on plane in deep water fast as well. My perfect boat will be the one that I own once I install my new prop and reduction this winter. Oh and the actuator steering!:D
 
#56 ·
man, this is gonna stir the pot. but ill give you a honest answer for what I "currently" believe. I truly believe a fan boat is the most capable boat. I believe a jet boat is the best choice for running all types of water. and I believe a investment should be protected (uhmw). The perfect boat needs to be safe in deep swells, strong enough to glide the rock shoals, powerful enough to haul a heavy load, yet light enough for the fan to push the mud. what I don't know is if its possible.

Even though I caint afford to build the perfect boat I believe the most capable boat would be a poly covered extra wide bottom with 26-28" sides, a forward center console that is covered by a lid in the back of the front raised deck, 16" walk arounds, a large troller that folds into a hatch, a big 4stroke jet outboard behind a tunnel, and a 54" 6 blade prop sitting low. all in a 3000lb goal weight.
 
#61 ·
Someone mentioned it before, or several people did for that matter, but there is no one size fits all boat!

You must build/buy a boat that best suits you and the waters you USUALLY fish.

IMO you would really have to have multiple boats (I think two would be enough) to have the "Best" boat for all types of water
 
#62 ·
For me and the waters I fish an airboat is certainly the most capable boat.

I'll be honest though I'm not a fan, AT ALL, of fan boats (that's almost a pun).

I think if I really wanted a super versatile boat beyond a blow boat, it would be a twin turbo LS powered jet boat with a closed loop cooling system and front steer capabilities as well as a troller for those times when you just really need to be stealthy lol. Ok maybe that's not the most practical I just want twin turbo LS anything :)
 
#63 ·
It completely depends on what your intended use is. Let's assume bowfishing only. As for a big fan vs an airboat I'd take an airboat every time. True, airboats don't handle rough water as well, but that problem can be solved by choosing a different launch or area to fish with an upwind shoreline. Fans run out of push with a load, there's no avoiding it. I encounter the skinny water with fish in the boat more frequently than water too rough to run, so having a more stable boat that hauls more weight and keeps operating in skinny water is a no brainer. Shooting off a big fan boat, followed by an airboat has made me realize that I will never spend my money on a fan. I'd either build a kicker or shoot off the bank for a year and sell a kidney to build an airboat.

Now if you have a bowfishing/family boat, a fan might be a better option. It's hard to tube behind an airboat.
 
#64 ·
We do a lot of tidal water, don't shoot huge numbers and don't usually travel far from the ramp, looking at doing an 1872 -2072 big fan boat something 28-35hp with a small 9.9-15hp OB on back as way back home if have fan issue at nite, also with small motor is lower so fan can turn or blow over motor easier,even thinking or toying with dual front controls for fan and OB motor and basically fan/kicker rig run totally from front.Also looking at the cons of our 2072 with 350# four stroke on back,(3) 31 series batteries for troller and "trading" for 115# small outboard and about same for fan and no batteries and troller issue motor,have shaft issue now. Also toying with possible jet boat fan idea ..... Good thread WWR
 
#65 ·
bowfishing only dedicated boat as always. I shoot the skinny mud flats in the local lakes in the spring, bigheads in the summer and run the shallow rivers in the fall. throughout the year I encounter a lot of different water and i want to feel capable in all of it.



 
#66 ·
:drunk:It takes more than one boat. I don't think I could get 30 minutes out of a fan boat, but I'm notoriously hard on equipment. The river was @ 20 ft. last week. No way I'm doing that on a little boat, but the flood waters are where the action is. Only "logical" solution is to put the 1436 IN the 2172, strap it in, throw in a chainsaw, and head for the river.
 
#68 ·
Crazy idea..... If take the boat and sit it on level ground and fill it with water and measure how much water it takes to fill the boat to how deep (measured on inside) and then calculate the weight of the water would give you the total figures after build though. And could tell how much or deeper it will draft as add weight and of course have to figure hull weight into the mix as well as everything added into it. So be able to tell 3,000 # will draft 12" and 2,500# draft 10" maybe.Especially hard to figure displacement with front take and flare at sides to the gunnels. .....just my ******* reverse engineering :D
 
#73 · (Edited)
that's not really how it works Garp. I was figuring displacement @8". if I do a second figure @10" it will give us the rate of sink; or loss of draft with weight gains. so lets do one............
as my figure above a 1672/.125 hull weighs 606lbs. and will take 3045 lbs to sink it to 8" deep and displace 48.8 cubic ft.

now lets do the figures for 10". so 10" of hull displaces 62.12cubic ft. and will take 3876lbs to push down 10"


----------------------------------------------------------------10" deep-----------------------3876lbs


---------------------------------------------------------------8" deep-------------------3045lbs
 
#70 ·
I need a vote, ive been considering trading in my f60 for a f90
all my cards on the table- I owe 4000 on 2013 f60 with 70hrs on it. my dealer just give me a 5000 out the door price on a new f90 for a trade in. id be taking a lone for 9000 and msrp on a f90 is $10,300.
if I look at the bottom line it will work out OK. however if I do this I can kiss my dreams of a new hull goodbye for 3+ years. but even if I sale my current hull in a year or so a f90 will push a good size hull and sip the fuel. help me decide.



 
#71 ·
Dave Ramsey would slap you, but he doesn't bowfish, so he really doesn't understand. How big is your next hull going to be? F115 is just a little more, and HP on a bigger hull ain't a bad thing. What could you get out of your complete rig? New motor and build a hull from the ground up? I'm going through all the same thoughts right now. I haven't slept in weeks.
 
#72 ·
rambo you already have put way too much thought into a new build. coming from a guy that MUST build things to be content, i couldnt skip the build. i understand the desire to create something from nothing and the feeling you get when its done and useable. you have a fully rigged bad arse boat, dont keep putting money into when your heart is already set on another rig. you have the shop, tools and skill and most importantly the drive.

keep what you got, build your new hull, then sell your current rig to fund a new motor.

thats my vote.
 
#74 ·
X2 on going the 115 if gonna do a repower,your gonna add about 120# on transom over your 60hp and the 115 is only about 10# more than the 90. If was going to the expense and weight to do it I would swap to the 115 if you can

The F115 is 376#


The F90 366#


Your 60hp was about 245#