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Discussion Starter #1
Question guys who have put longer shafts on their trollers.

I have done this twice with two different trollers and have failed both times to get them to seal correctly at the shaft. The first one I did I used blue loctite on the threads just like the instructions said. first time out it got water in the head and smoked the armature. The second one I used 5 min two part epoxy from loctite as well, this one lasted most of a season but the first time out this year the bond broke and allowed the shaft to come loose from the head (again allowing water to get into the motor, have not yet assesed damage) and I have a new shaft on order to repair this one.

What have you guys had sucess with to seal and keep the threads tight on the saft to lower unit interface?
 

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Red loctite failed twice here, the first one lasted 3 months, the second one lasted 2 weeks. Trolling motors and bowfishing are just not made for each other
 

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red loctite, i believe it is #271 is what I have used twice with no problems. Make sure you get the shaft screwed on all the way too. I fill all the threads on the top side of the shaft and it seems to spread out good when you are screwing it on.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Sounds like it is kind of hit and miss no matter what you use. I am almost thinking of using the thinner JB Weld. Or someone else suggested gorilla glue since it expands when it dries. I really dont want to do this again!
 

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Red loctite on the threads screw it in tight. Then run a bead around the top when its all the way in. Let it cure for a day or two.
 

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I've used silicon on two so far with no issues. You need to put whatever your using on the motor head threads not the shaft threads. If you put it on the shaft it will get twisted off before its even a thread deep on the motor. Once you bottom out the shaft put a bead around the top.
 

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If you put your sealant or glue on the threads in the motor housing it will push it into your housing, and i don't know about you but i sure don't want loctite running onto my electrical motor components. It is just like gluing anything else always apply glue to the male portion of what you are putting together
 

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If you put your sealant or glue on the threads in the motor housing it will push it into your housing, and i don't know about you but i sure don't want loctite running onto my electrical motor components. It is just like gluing anything else always apply glue to the male portion of what you are putting together
I've never changed a shaft, and if anyone could screw it up it would be me. However, I'd think you'd want to put the adhesive on the female threads and then have that part upside down as the shaft is screwed upward into the motor. Leave it upside down till it's dried and the loctite shouldn't get on any of the motor's guts I'd think.
 

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Always dope/seal female threads, not male regardless of what connection you are working on. If you look in the threaded hole in the troller, it's just a collar welded to the outside of the motor housing with a smaller hole inside for the wires to pass through to the brushes. It would take A LOT of excess sealant to get into the motor housing.
Knowing that I would be changing the troller shaft somewhat frequently, I bought the 1-1/8" tap for the threads which helps dramatically with the thread prep. I would recommend this to everyone, a great $100 investment.
 

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Always dope/seal female threads, not male regardless of what connection you are working on. If you look in the threaded hole in the troller, it's just a collar welded to the outside of the motor housing with a smaller hole inside for the wires to pass through to the brushes. It would take A LOT of excess sealant to get into the motor housing.
Knowing that I would be changing the troller shaft somewhat frequently, I bought the 1-1/8" tap for the threads which helps dramatically with the thread prep. I would recommend this to everyone, a great $100 investment.
What is the thread count on that 1-1/8" tap?
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well, I opened it up tonight and dumped about a quart of water out of the motor, surprisingly there was not much damage inside. I ended up pulling the armature out and gluing the shaft in place on the housing with JB weld, I put it on the female threads and it did push quite a bit through into the housing. so I would suggest not doing the female side unless you have the motor torn apart. however it did seem to do a better job this way. As far as using the JB I guess I will report back as to how well it worked, although with my experience with JB weld I hope to hell I never have to take this apart again.
 

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Chainsaw Willy
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Always dope/seal female threads, not male regardless of what connection you are working on. If you look in the threaded hole in the troller, it's just a collar welded to the outside of the motor housing with a smaller hole inside for the wires to pass through to the brushes. It would take A LOT of excess sealant to get into the motor housing.
Knowing that I would be changing the troller shaft somewhat frequently, I bought the 1-1/8" tap for the threads which helps dramatically with the thread prep. I would recommend this to everyone, a great $100 investment.
minn kota P/N 2881021 is only $50 and it has a hole in it to run the wires through so you don't have to do a complete break down.
 
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