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Where did you get those plugs? I like those and the fact you can run 2 lights on one plug.
 
Here is one of the ballast mounts I used in the boat...it was about 90% done when I took the picture, the ballast on the bottom right was not yet done. This is mounted to the bulkhead under the front deck. Wiring these thngs up to make them "prettier" takes time. It wont win any awards but it should work and wont have 10 ft of wire hanging off the thing.
As said use nylocks whereever you can or at least use threadlocker.
http://www.bowfishtexas.com/images/2010/Airboatbuild/IMG00047201101270707.jpg
 
the couplings are from ace hardware online and the plugs are trailer plugs. the wires in the light are a smaller gauge than the wire in the plugs. i used them all last summer and never had a problem. my lights are 150w hps.
 
When I changed boats I reused my original ballast box which has the switches on one end. This worked well on Old Faithful since the deck was free-span and the box tucked up under the deck nicely with easy access to the switches. The deck on the new ride was constructed different and in order to mount the box under the deck and out of the way access to the switches sucked. Having too much time on my hands one day I made this remote control for my remote ballast box.

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OBG, anything special about those toggle switches, or are they just regular toggles with the rubber boots on them? I am interested in doing the same thing for my box.
 
OBG, anything special about those toggle switches, or are they just regular toggles with the rubber boots on them? I am interested in doing the same thing for my box.
Nothing special necessary.
 
alright i may have a stupid question...im bout to order 7 150 watt hps lights from gv lighting....would a ballast box be recommended? or is it for higher power lights? if it is recommended....can someone send me some instructions? i am HORRIBLE when it comes to electricity....
 
alright i may have a stupid question...im bout to order 7 150 watt hps lights from gv lighting....would a ballast box be recommended? or is it for higher power lights? if it is recommended....can someone send me some instructions? i am HORRIBLE when it comes to electricity....
yes i would..just to keep the weight off the front of your deck and stress off your lights!!!
 
Well on a whem I bought 2 "heavy duty" 12v/125v 10amp switches from Lowes today. After I got them home I realised the wire to and from the switch is pretty small. I wanted to wire two switches, one for each side with 3-150 HPS's per side. My worry is that the weak link will be the switch, and more so the wire to and from the switch. It is wired under the deck 5 feet from the first light. I went 10 gauge 240 from the genny, then spit into two 12 gauges down each side. Will this small 14-16 gauge wire at the toggle screw the pooch? Looks funny, but it is a small run, like 4 inches each side. Is this wrong? I burn up almost every thing I wire! This doesnt look right to me, just dont want to burn up the boat or my new 150 HPS's!

Take care,

Todd
 
when running the main power wire in to the terminal blocks is it better to make short jumper wires from one to the next or to use the little jumper pieces of metal they sell?
 
I ended up eating the 10a fuses and bought some 20a direct screw switches from Northern Tool, lesson learned "heavy duty" doesnt always mean that. They actually work really well, and were less money anyway.

Take care,

Todd
 
If you purchase HPS lights with the caps already in them do you just take the guts out of the light housing and put it in the ballast box? So all you would need to purchase would be the box, switches, wire etc...
 
If you purchase HPS lights with the caps already in them do you just take the guts out of the light housing and put it in the ballast box? So all you would need to purchase would be the box, switches, wire etc...
That would be correct.
 
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