Hopefully gonna have some lights prolly 5-8 halos n some running lights
on the inside soon

 

Lookin good, love my old Johnson 20.

 

Looking good!

 

Think i might put some float pods on it Im not shure what dimensions yet or thickness
So if anyone could point me in a good direction for float pods size and wall thickness
n might also get a genny rack on the back once i figure out what genny to get
So i can get my genny to clear my outboard. But for now just worryin bout the lights
n genny n running lights and the float pods.

 

Looks like you have a long shaft on short transom...can't tell from the pics. Your cavitation plate (plate right above the prop) should be flush or slightly higher than the bottom of your boat. Consider a carb rebuild on the ole' motor too. It doesn't take long and you can do it yourself. Let me know if I can help.

 

Its a short shaft it aint the best pic. Il take a better one on sunday. I just moved to md
n my boat aint here yet it will be on sunday but my dad is doin all the work on it right now
he found a leak in the bottom end n got a seal kit for it n was puttin that
in this week N the carb dont look bad we cleaned it up real good n it started
first pull, not bad for not being ran for bout ten years so for 75
bucks plus 30 for the seal kit n a little carb cleanin i only got bout 100 into it n
it runs like a charm. N i think if i get a 15 horse carp itd be a 15 horse motor if im
Not mistaken because im pretty shure its the same motor just different carb
But i doubt id do that cuz 10 is enough n itd be a lot bbetter on gas a 10 than 15
But yea im positive its a short shaft but i wish it was a long one
Il post better pics sunday though

 

I was thinking of the same long shaft on a short transum?, If so you will be dragging the bottom in the shallows.......you will have poor acceleration & performance. Just build you a jack plate and add approx 4 1/2" to 5" height to your transum. My boat is a 14-48 I like longshafts because I like standing up and operating my boat. Mines a 2004 Merc Classic, I built the extended transum from alumni. Motor height is important. (1st set of pics is the new 2004 Merc Longshaft, 2nd set the lower end case came off a 2oo3 Merc Clasic. Had to replace it I hit a cypressknee, cracked the lower case & tore up the transum racing to a duck hole.)

 

I like them pods u got on there did u make em or buy em?
I might be gettin some on mine soon

 

bought them threw beavertail, had them installed when I had the transum re-done

 

I was lookin at the ones on there too but i sint shure yet

 

Boats gonna be here tomorrow. Its a 5-6 hr drive from here up to central pa
where it is now leavin pretty early in the morning Hopefully il get back in
time to try it out in the bay n maybe take her out to shoot on monday
i will be gettin lights before the end of summer prolly halos 5-7 150-250 watt bulbs
N a champion 2000 watt from wally world n prolly some of them brake lights
for trailers for the interior lights prolly 2-4 of them. Since they're only bout 5 bucks
A peice il ty em N float Pods by next summer N a spray bomb camo job
Il post pics when i mess with it. N hopefully il get to bloody it all up this week

 

I gotta put my boat down here sunday. But i need to put a shift shaft
Seal on it to have it ready the seal should be here by the end of the week
So i was wanderin if anyone around southern md could come by n help me
out I dont have any money or id take it to a marine shop n i aint real shure
I wanna mess with it myself. Or if anyone could give me some info on how to put
The seal in Id appreciate it. I need to stick some fish n this is all thats
Keepin me from doin it... The motor is a 1962 johnson seahorse
10 hp short shaft. Model number is qd 23
Thanks in advance

 

Heres some better pics

<a href="http://s1136.photobucket.com/albums/n482/backstrapgihad38/?action=view&current=1d87aeca.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n482/backstrapgihad38/1d87aeca.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>

<a href="http://s1136.photobucket.com/albums/n482/backstrapgihad38/?action=view&current=c906d477.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n482/backstrapgihad38/c906d477.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>

<a href="http://s1136.photobucket.com/albums/n482/backstrapgihad38/?action=view&current=ad4d49fd.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n482/backstrapgihad38/ad4d49fd.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>

<a href="http://s1136.photobucket.com/albums/n482/backstrapgihad38/?action=view&current=5a88739a.jpg" target="_blank"><img src="http://i1136.photobucket.com/albums/n482/backstrapgihad38/5a88739a.jpg" border="0" alt="Photobucket Pictures, Images and Photos" /></a>

 

I was tryin to think of how i could put lights on the left
side since the troller is mounted like that but i think il just
mount 1 or 2 behind where the troller is when its pulled up prolly
2 n angle one forward so i dont have any blind spots but im really likin my
Setup so far. Bdint get to take it out yet with the new chit on it yet though
N i wired up one of those little led marker lights on the front.
It aint the prettiest Wirin job but itl work. I gotta het a few more
switches n rewire the control box from the back bench
seat to the front under the deck kinda cuz im puttin my battery under
The deck to rven out weight n save space so i can get a little genny in there
Let me know wha ya'll think

 

Your right it isn't a long shaft and looks like your build is coming along. Having matched up several motors to several boats, check to see that the cavitation plate is dead flush with the bottom of the boat, you may have to put a block of wood under the motor mount to get the cav. plate flush. It will get you a little more speed if it is lower now (can't tell from the pics) and you'll be able to run shallower and save your skeg and prop some dings.

 

Il try puttin the block on the transom The cavitation plate is
bout 1-2 inches below the bottom of the boat. Im gonna try it where
It is now Just to see how it works but if i have to it wont take long anyway

 

im gonna get back on the build after duck season goes out so i can take the blind off my boat and get it ready for spring
plans as of now is a small 800 watt genny with 4 150 watt halos and the reason im goin with such a low watt genny is to save weight im gonna try one like the chicago electric one it only weighs 39 lbs. (witch is about the same if not less than if id get 2 marine batteries n go led)
and a light/knee rail 10"-12" tall out of 1/2" square tubing maybe aluminum... i aint shure yet il have to see what i can get my hands on
and a new electrical panel for the bow/stern lights n then a small box for a cd player
i know its quite a bit for a 1436 but il have my weight distributed as good as possible

 

say id get a 40-60 lb genny, would it be alright to make a genny rack to go over the motor in the back n just make it so it straps down with ratchet straps or something like that
would it make it anymore unstable my outboard weighs 50-70 lbs. and i could just even out the weight on the front just wandering if itd make my boat have a too high of a center of gravity ?

 

i think it would be to tippy if you put it up on a rack.

 

I would go with 2 batteries and led's

 

I was gonna go led but its almost the same weight a genny compared to 2 batteries for the lights plus 1 for the troller n id have almost 200 in the batts alone plus the cost of lights n with a genny itl be around 300 bucks for the whole set up

 

Ive got a 1448 that I just built a genny rack for and it is perfect. I have the 3500 watt champion so its close to 100 ponds give or take. The rack is 26 inches off the transom and it isnt anymore tippy then when it was in the floor. I built the rack in a day with a mig welder some EMT pipe and a band saw. If you have a welder that is cheap and you could try it out during the day and if you didnt like it then cut it up and make you a bow rack out of it.

 

just ordered 5 27 watt cool blue LEDS from see lite, :grin:
prolly goin on after duck season goes out gotta get a light rail made, prolly gonna make it bout 8" above the gunnel n leave a open spot for in the troller in the middle

any advice on how to make a light rail without welding anything... maybe pvc? or emt conduit with fittings? and what would be the best way to mount it on the gunwhale?
thanks i appreciate it

 

With 27 watt and your wooden deck probably skip lite rail and buildup a small wood block under the lites to the deck next to gunnels or mount them to the sides of gunnels with the lite brackets pointing down. Why 5? Other than money. Troller centered and 2 on one side 3 on other?

 

thinkin 2 on front corners n one on each side
just got as many as i can for now

 

how do yall think the cool blue will be compared to true white

 

I have a 14-48 Alumicraft, I thought long and hard ask a ton of questions. I have 2 40w up front, 6 27w 3 on each side with on angle (on each side) & the next light behind that lis less angled. My deck is 50" in front by 65" in back & 56" deep. My deck is made up of 2" x 1/4"thick alumni angle metal & 1" thick wall alumin tubing, topped with 3/4" marine grade plywood & & I used rubber tread mill matts glued to the primed plywood. Heres how I mounted my lights mounted. I used 1" round alumin solid bar stock cut to 3 1/2" tall chucked up in a lathe drill out the centers & taped them. I coated them with a baked on moly finish. I have very good light coverage. I try to minimize the construction of the deck do to the size of boat I have. My knee rail is made of 1" thin wall metal tubing, the planels are 18 ga. metal.

 

i got my 27 watt leds from seelite yesterday and like the looks of em a lot
gonna start on my light rail soon gonna make it out of 3/4" EMT conduit, got most of it figured out except i cant find the rite floor flange to mount it to my deck
i need 6 total anyone know where i can find these? i dont really care if they are galvanized or plastic or whatever just so it will hold my rail with lights on sturdy
its gonna be about a foot or so high and 46" long on each side and then 11"from side to middle on each side in the front to leave a spot open for the troller
gonna have 5 lights on it now but will prolly be 8 by spring so thats why i made it to cover the whole deck so i got room for more lights
but if someone can tell me where i can find them flanges id apreciate it
thanks

 

Are you talking flanges that are threaded? If so, they have them lowes or any hardware store should have them.

 

i saw the threaded but im looking more for slip on with a set screw i know they are around i just cant find em

 

got another 3 27 watters on the way, so that will be 8 total so it should definetly be plenty of coverage on my boat

i ordered a clymer manual for my outboard too so gotta get that torn apart n put whatever needs done in the motor
so after that gotta get the rail done n lights wired n what not n get another battery from wally world n some foam pads for the floor n she'll be ready for the water by march maybe april