BowFishing Country banner
1 - 20 of 38 Posts

KMckie786

· Registered
Joined
·
529 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have a Mercury 9.9 with tilt/trim on a hydraulic jack plate. When I bought the boat it had a Powrtran setup on it. I didnt really care for the electric steering because it's slow and it's hard to tell what position the motor is in at any given time. That being said, it posed some difficulties in hooking it up with a push pull steering setup, due to the tilt and hydraulic jack plate.

I had a plan to utilize a 5/16 Madison push pull cable, ran through the tilt tube, and connected to the steering link. This would allow the tilt to still work without binding the cable. After fabbing up eveything up, I soon realized that setup would eventually (probably immediately) result in a failure of the cable, due to the torque and pressure exerted on the cable from the steering linkage. With the cable fully extended and the motor fully turned, the motor had enough leverage to bend the cable arm.

I was a little dissapointed, I thought for sure I had it worked out. So, back to square one. After a couple days of trial and error this is what I came up with. Click the link to the video below. Everything is still mocked up so thats why the bracket is loose on the right side.

Let me know what yall think. Hopefully it will be a help to someone who may be stumped like I was.
https://youtu.be/kNcnYEYNs6Q
 
Looks good man. Does it bind if the motor is tilted up and steering?
 
Discussion starter · #7 · (Edited)
Looks good man. Does it bind if the motor is tilted up and steering?
No it doesn't. That's the purpose of the setup. The piece that connects the the steering cable and the steering rod is drilled to allow the rod to turn free inside. It can be completely trimmed up and down without affecting the push/pull cable. I couldnt trim it all the way up because the prop hits the wall haha. If you watch the end of the video you can see how, when operating the trim, they move independent of each other.

Add a stop to keep motor from turning so far it binds
It's not binding on anything.
 
Can you post pics? Videos won't load here in Japan. Sounds as if your motor wants to turn more than your cable will allow and its pushing(bending) cable away and that's your concern...may be completely wrong, probably am.
 
Disregard everything I said. I thought you were still having issues and looking for solution. Not that you fixed already lol. I blame it on the jet lag... Would still like to see pictures.
 
Discussion starter · #11 ·
First issue was when the cable was ran through the tilt tube and fully extended it was way too flexible. It would have failed no doubt. If I could have mounted cable directly to the motor, instead of using the stock steering rod, I would have been golden. To hook it direct to the motor would have moved everything too far outside the boat. I wanted to keep everything in tight.

When I went to this setup, if I had made a solid connection between the guide rod and steering cable, it would have twisted the cable up while trimming up the kicker. So I drilled the nut you see in the pic to 5/8 to match the guide rod, added the washers to each side to prevent it from sliding back and forth but allows it to rotate and move free when operating the trim. Welded to the nut is a clevis I made to connect to the heim joint on the steering cable.
<a href="http://s107.photobucket.com/user/rebelrat86/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160118_174311_zpsrnjvlpdh.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m281/rebelrat86/Mobile%20Uploads/20160118_174311_zpsrnjvlpdh.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20160118_174311_zpsrnjvlpdh.jpg"/></a>
<a href="http://s107.photobucket.com/user/rebelrat86/media/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01-18%2022.07.11_zps5slmxypg.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m281/rebelrat86/Mobile%20Uploads/2016-01-18%2022.07.11_zps5slmxypg.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 2016-01-18 22.07.11_zps5slmxypg.jpg"/></a>
 
I see said the blind man!! That's awesome!! That's pre much the only reason I went to powrtan. I couldn't ever get the linkage right on the push/pull. I'd say a lot of guys will take that idea.
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Fabbing my throttle handle now. This is the beginnings of it.
<a href="http://s107.photobucket.com/user/rebelrat86/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160119_144449_zpsrh06axai.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m281/rebelrat86/Mobile%20Uploads/20160119_144449_zpsrh06axai.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20160119_144449_zpsrh06axai.jpg"/></a>
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Everything is just tacked here. Any reason why this wont work or not operate easily? Figured I would ask before fully welding everything. If it all works I will be adding a small brace to the bracket that holds the cable.<a href="http://s107.photobucket.com/user/rebelrat86/media/Mobile%20Uploads/20160119_161445_zpspop9cyr1.jpg.html" target="_blank"><img src="http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m281/rebelrat86/Mobile%20Uploads/20160119_161445_zpspop9cyr1.jpg" border="0" alt=" photo 20160119_161445_zpspop9cyr1.jpg"/></a>
 
That's pretty slick! How far do you have to move the stick lock to lock?
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
If you are able to get full throttle then roll with it.
That's why the piece is so long, 6" I believe. My old throttle setup only required 1.5" of cable travel. This one requires 3" and I didn't want alot of travel on the throttle handle.

That's pretty slick! How far do you have to move the stick lock to lock?
I haven't measured it but it's roughly 20-24"
 
I think you're going to have a binding issue. When you pull back on your handle (the box wrench) it's going to move that lower piece through an arc. That black piece on your sliding cable may take a beating eventually.
 
1 - 20 of 38 Posts