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Talk some sense into me. 135 Merc on a 17ft?

2.6K views 26 replies 15 participants last post by  mkc  
#1 ·
Alright, I have a 17ft Starcraft Starcaster, slick bottom, mod v, basically a bass tracker without the bottom ribs. Currently running a 50hp Merc and it is slow (22mph), and really wont even plane out with a load of fish, coupled with the almost constant problems that I have had with this engine this year I have been shopping to re-power on a budget.

I have recently stumbled on a early 90's ski boat with a 135 Mercury V6 Black max that I can pick up for a song. This motor is almost 200lbs heavier than the current motor, as well as obviously the added 85hp. The hull is rated at 90hp.

So what is everyone's thoughts? Am I just looking for disaster? or could I beef up the transom and add some float pods and have a safe boat that could at least get out of its own way? I understand the insurance implications.

Thanks!
 
#2 ·
How wide is the boat? You will also need to make sure it s a 20" shaft and not the 25". Over rating by that much is not that big of a deal, but "safety" really depends on how big your boat is. My boat is rated for a 100hp, but its a 1870 and I have a 150hp on it.
 
#4 ·
Step one-check with your insurance. Mine said they didnt care what size I put on my boat, but the rate was based on HP size. You definately dont want to find out AFTER you have an accident and have an injured passenger that your insurance company wont cover you due to an oversized motor.

Also, whats the boat rated for? How wide is it? Whats this new motor weigh?

Ive got a newer 135 Opti on an 1872 SeaArk and it does just fine, but Im guessing you're gonna want to beef up that transom. Post up some pics of ya can.
 
#11 · (Edited)
I'm in the same situation. I have a 1652 MonArk flat bottom (72" across the gunnels) that did belong to the Army Corp of Engineers as a rescue boat on the Ohio River. It doesn't have a USCG spec plate on the boat so I have no clue what it's actually rated for. I have it stripped down to the bare hull now, but I plan to rebuild the boat soon to include a major heavy duty all aluminum reinforced transom and put a 90 Yamaha 2-stroke on it (270 lbs). I want to get the boat to plane out even with a full load of three guys, gear, and fish. Plus, this motor has electric tilt and trim which will be much better than my current 40hp tiller (170? lbs) which does not. Regardless of any rating, this boat will be nothing like it was when I finish the fabrication so handling the extra hp will not be that big of deal. The 90 horse motor will add another 100 pounds of outboard to the mix, but the addition of float pods should more than cover the added transom weight.

As was previously stated, "just because you have the power, doesn't mean you have to use it". I'm not a speed junky. I just want to be able to move the load on plane for the same reason that you do. A boat that gets rated as a bare hull with bench seats isn't a fair assessment in my opinion. When a boat gets re-fabricated, seriously beefed up and totally customized; to me it isn't the same boat anymore. I think it should be re-rated in its new form. I could see a small boat with wood transom would not be rated for much over 40hp, but a solid aluminum reinforced transom with side bracing should be rated as such. I guess I don't understand how the whole boat rating thing is formulated. Insurance companies probably go by factory specs to determine coverage eligibility. I have heard that commercial hulls don't have hp ratings. I don't know for sure. I just know that my boat does not have a USCG tag anywhere on the hull to go by.

I would put that 135 hp on there to get the performance that you need and just use the power wisely as you need it. However, make sure you build that transom to handle the additional load and weight associated with it.
 
#16 ·
wow, my boat has never seen 30mph with a 50hp 3cyl merc, even with just me and my wife, to be fair my boat has a full bass boat interior three big batteries, 100lb platform, troller, and full stereo. but perhaps I could do something with the prop. biggest point being that most of the tourneys around here are total weight, so I need to be able to move some lbs. to give an idea, the guys that placed first at the last shoot, shot 1300lbs the first day and almost 1000 the second.
 
#18 ·
Had to make a 240 mile spur of the moment drive last night but I basically stole a pretty nice little tri hull with an AMAZING 1994 model 115 4cyl 2 smoke hanging off of it. so the heart transplant on the bass boat starts after the tourney sunday! GAS ON! View attachment 21442
Yes...power to the tri hull! lol
Goin tomorrow to get a 140 Suzuki for mine :hb:
Need some pics (and specs) of the boat man! :tu:
 
#25 ·
What kind of trim problems u got? I have the same outboard and have done alot of work with the trim system. Let me know if u have any questions , and I have some spare parts if you need them.
 
#26 ·
trim problems stem from the fact that the motor came with a bad power trim ram, which was not installed at the time but the guy handed it to me. Well the mounting brackets from the 50hp and the 115 were "exactly the same" so I decided to swap the power trim from the 50 over, well i missed one minor aspect of the swap and that was where the ram mounted in the top to the upper motor clamp bracket. on the 115 single ram system it is offset, and the 50 three ram it was directly in the center. I have found a manual trim unit for the 50 so my plan is now to swap out the brackets and use either the entire bracket from the 50 or just the upper portion of it. It seems as though it is going to be a giant PITA to do the swap but the time seems worth the money.
 
#27 ·
First check with the dealer! 1. Insurance Com. may not insure the boat with that size motor! 2. u.s.c has a frormual. all boats are not rated for the same size motor, even though, they are the same size boat. I ran into that problem with a bass boat! What does your plate on the boat say for max horse power?