Well I got the motor mounted last weekend. Due to the lip at the top of the transom, I had to build a 4" off-set plate. Otherwise the handle on the Panther mount was under the lip when the motor was raised up. I built the first off-set plate the same size as the mounting plate on the Panther and it caused too much flex in the transom so I had to extend the angle that mounts to the boat to 16" long to help spread out the pressure on the back of the boat. The new mount doesn't flex at all. That is the reason for 6 mounting bolts through the transom instead of 4. I figured I would use all of the bolt holes since they were already drilled through the boat.

 

The handle clears the top lip and tilts/locks without hitting anything.

 

I have had a couple of days at off with the storm coming so I figured what the heck, might as well work on the deck while waiting for my steering cable to come. Time to turn this light rail into an elevated deck. The deck is made out of 1" EMT conduit. Once I get it welded up I am going to top it with 1/8" aluminum and hydroturf. Getting older every day and the back gets sore standing on the deck all night. Hopefully the hydroturf will help with that.

 

Hats off to Madison. I ordered my steering cable late on Monday afternoon and it was delivered on Thursday. Sean at Madison doesn't play around!

 

I hope I didn't go through the effort over the last couple of days just to watch the boat blow away in the hurricane lol. Starting on the steering stick today.

 

I am very interested to see how you hook your steering up with the tiller handle bracket still on there.

 

X2^

 

Unless you've already added some I'd suggest some vertical bracing near the middle of the deck

 

That's "thick wall" EMT!!! It don't need no stinking braces lol. That's as far as I got yesterday before I had to dog it off. I decided to hold off on finishing the bracing until I get the stick steering and cable bracket locations figured out. Once these are figured out, I am going to finish the bracing around those apparatuses lol. Didn't want to have the deck finished and then have to move bracing. Working on the stick steering today.

 

I started working on the steer stick today...got cut short when the wife got home from work and she was a little ticked that I was working on the boat instead of prepping for the storm lol....Priorities

 

Well, I've been working 7/12's since Mathew and haven't had any time to work on the boat. I got off early today and got a couple of things done. I cut some plywood templates for the decking so that I could form the angle iron around the deck. This is simply to cover the edges of the decking and padding. I wanted to use angle in case I decided to add a knee rail. I also decided that I wanted a foot throttle since I've got a case of a little Arther in the hands and wasn't sure how the old hand would feel after working a hand throttle all night. I've got plenty of cable so if the foot throttle doesn't work out I can always try the hand throttle.

 

Alright guys. I know we have some geometry gurus here when it comes to steering. I started mocking up my steering linkage and although I am getting full lock to lock back at the motor I am worried about the angle of the drag link causing the front steering to be too hard. I wont know for sure until I get the steering at the front deck finished but does anyone have any opinion on if this is too much angle?

 

Looks pretty similar to mine. I don't see why that wont work. Make sure the motor will tilt all the way up without putting a lot of stress on the cable or hitting anything.

 

The only thing I can see that may cause problems is the placement of the drag link connecting to the motor.

 

When turned all the way It's gonna be a pain to turn back straight while under power. Drag link needs to be as parallel as possible to the steering cable.

 

Phillip, why do you say the placement of the motor connection might be a problem?

Bob, my first drag link had a bend in it about 3" back from the motor end to try and get it more parallel to the steering cable. The problem I was having is when I turned the motor to starboard the bent rod wouldn't let it go to full lock, it was about a 1/2" from going all of the way. That is why I tried the straight rod and could get lock to lock.

I am going to try both of your recommendations tonight by seeing how far from the motor I can move my connection out and still get lock to lock on my little 7" cable.

 

Looks good

 

You want your pivot on the motor to be almost on top of your steering cable when the motor is straight. That being said I would move your pivot point on the motor a little further out from the motor and see how it does. Also your drag link may be a little too long. just keep tinkering with it, every time you move something, something else changes. Just got to try and find the best combo. When I was setting mine up I took most of the stuff loose so I could move it all by hand, it makes It easier to see whats going on. Also 1/2" from bump stops isn't bad at all, you will still be able to turn on a dime. I would want to be able to turn the boat with ease over having 1/2" more turn.

 

You only need the motor to turn to the bump stop in one direction. It's a waste setting it up to go bump to bump both directions. With it being on one side of the boat it's gonna turn in one direction much easier than the other

 

Well its not pretty but I played with the linkage a little last night. I moved it out as far as I could and still get bump to bump. It does feel easier to turn at the motor than the last set up. Still am not sure if this is the best configuration since it is not a perfect science. Like Phillip said, as soon as you change one thing another one needs addressing.

Bob, with the motor mounted on the starboard side, which side should it hit the bump stop. It took every fraction of an inch of the cable throw to get the attachment point this far away from the motor. If it is not necessary to hit bump on both sides, I may be able to move it out a little further.

 

looking better, do you have a straight and curved drag link? looks that way, I would try the straight with what you have now. Also try adjusting where the steering cable mounts to the plate with the two nuts. Looks like your motor is on the back right of the boat, meaning your boat will turn better to the left so I would get as much steering to the right before worrying about turning left.

 

No, I don't have two drag links. I pivoted it out to the point that the drag link and cable were parallel when the motor was centered and bent the existing drag link I already had to make the connection point. Looks like I may be making another drag link that is straight and see which one works better. Thanks for the input

 

I gotcha, before you make a new one take a wood dowel or something and cut two holes in each end similar to your drag link and see how it does.

 

Good call. I'll give it a shot. It will be next week before I get back on this. Going out of town for a few days but will definitely try your idea.

 

If the motor is on the right hand side of the boat it's gonna turn to the left much easier

 

I worked on the deck today. Got the light brackets tacked on and mocked everything up. After mocking everything up, I took the deck off and have it in the shop ready to finish welding everything up in the morning. I tacked the steering bulkhead bracket in place today and not too sure about my location. I mounted it 9 1/2" below the center of the pivot point of the stick steer. How low do yall mount your steering cable below the pivot? After a couple of hours of welding everything up tomorrow, it will be ready for paint.

 

:tu:

 

Anywhere between 9-11 should work great.

 

Thanks I'll play within these parameters and see what works best.

 

I got the deck frame welded up. Next is some emt prep and paint then I can move on to remounting and wiring the lights.