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You two idiots done? Or do I need to turn your keyboards off?

You too want to insult one another take it to pm or another site.

Mike
 
and thats why your the law lol
 
One of the best setup, short of a gen III NV or FLIR Scope, that I've seen is a good 50mm objective scope with a Laser Genetics illuminator attached. I used one setup with a Pentax scope (decent scope for the money) and a laser genetics ND5. Very nice for under 200 yards.
 
Back to business, what optic would you recommend for shooting hogs on full moon night on white/brown sand?
How much are you looking to spend on optics? That's a loaded question, too far of a range of price and performance.
 
Discussion starter · #66 · (Edited)
Tell me about bcg's (bolt carrier groups) and what their interchangeability into a dpms or bushmaster upper 556 assy? What do you look for? What brands to stay away from? what is headspace (I assume it is the distance measured in thousandths of inch from the the bolt to the shell)?

Also, how does the scope lights with red & green lenses work at night? How far can you see & will they scare hogs?
 
Any millspec ar15 BCG will interchange as long as it is in spec, and is the same caliber. So for example my noveske bcg will fit in my m & p and visa versa, their both 5.56.

I went with a small company on my last build called Rguns. Reviews were 50/50 on them, mostly due to their customer service on full guns they built. Also heard a few reviews that they had ejection problems, then I read the people with issues were shooting steel cases, and a stiffer extractor spring fixed it. I got two nickel boron BCG from them and Garrett has one and haven't had a problem.

Anytime you go with a smaller company like that, you want to check head space with a no-go gauge. Brownells field gauge is like 25$ and well worth it. All you do is remove the extractor, and put it in the chamber, if the bolt doesn't close all the way your good to go. Hence the name "no go". You should really do it anytime you mismatch BCG's with different upper assemblies but ESP for off brand or smaller manufacturers.

I would love to have been able to buy a BCM, DPMS, or spikes bolt carrier, but in times like this you take what you can find.
 
And like anything else, with bolt carriers it's easier to pick up the pieces and put it together your self. People buy the groups up fast, but don't realize there's only a few parts involved with one you can usually find them separate, even if there different manufacturers. You need a

Carrier housing
Bolt
Extractor and extractor retainer pin
Carrier pin
Cam pin
Bolt carrier key
Firing pin

You can assemble one in under a minute
 
Discussion starter · #69 ·
ttt
anyone do the trigger job on it by adding allen screw, smoothing the sear, lighter springs and chopping the hammer? I plan on smoothing the sear, allen screw and the lighter springs but hesitant on the trigger since parts are getting hard to find.
 
If you want a better trigger you'd be much better off buying a Geisselle or Gold trigger. I've got two Geisselle SSA-E triggers that I really like and I've got a Gold trigger that I haven't installed yet. You can do the set screw and polishing of the sear and hammer and have a better trigger but it won't be close to the two triggers I mentioned. In a self defense situation you probably don't want a two stage, 2 lb trigger but for target or varmint hunting it is very nice.
 
Hope you guys still looking in building AR's done got your bullets already. If not, you gonna have a built gun and have to pretend shoot it. LOL
 
Yes I've done the trigger jobs with the JP reduced springs and polishing the sear/disconnector and its a sweet upgrade that won't break the bank. Did them on all mine and gbollom did his. I've done them for other people and they love them.
 
Hitman13, Have you performed the set screw and polishing on one of your guns?
No, I have not done the set screw modification. I have polished the sear and trimmed the hammer, but still didn't like the trigger for target shooting. It would be a fine upgrade if you are using it for self defense or in a combat situation where a very light trigger may cause unintended shots.
 
No, I have not done the set screw modification. I have polished the sear and trimmed the hammer, but still didn't like the trigger for target shooting. It would be a fine upgrade if you are using it for self defense or in a combat situation where a very light trigger may cause unintended shots.
Check out the JP enterprise reduced power springs, if you didn't upgrade the springs then you missed out as well. Polishing helps, but trimming the hammer did nothing IMO, the springs made all the difference in the world. They take a millspec trigger down to around 3-3.5 lbs and have an enhanced disconnector spring. Oh, and JP enterprises sells them for 9.99$ with a little time and knowledge of the assembly you can take up all the pre travel and have a smooth trigger and 3 lb pull for 10$ I've had
Some really expensive 2 stage drop ins and I would choose these over them any day
 
Discussion starter · #78 ·
Thanks Clark - I had already ordered those springs in anticipation of changing the pull before I found the post on how to modify it on ar15.com
 
Discussion starter · #79 ·
So Clark3 did you just polish the sear and the groove on the trigger where the sear contacts lighly to remove the machine marks? What did you use to polish?

Also, how does a 2 stage trigger work?
 
Discussion starter · #80 · (Edited)
Lost my AR virginity last night

Well I got my DSA lower in yesterday and lost my AR virginity. I believe I fully understand how the lower works especially the spring and dowel on the front catch pin. The trick to it was to blow out the groove really well for both catch pins, place spring in, use a small pair of needle nose pliers to hold the dowel as you press it down into the reciever and use a box cutter to slide in place to hold the spring and dowel in place as you press the pin in place. I recommend doing this in your kitchen where you can easily find the little spring and pin on the kitchen floor (launched it twice - then it was a piece of cake). Here is what it is:

DSA lower
DSG arms buffer tube kit (buffer tube, castle nut, retainer ring, spring, buffer)
magpol moe DE adjustable stock
magpul DE trigger guard
magpul DE grip
CMMG lower parts kit (black grip and all hardware needed including trigger to complete lower)

I polished the machining grooves out of the trigger and hammer out with a 1200 grit sandstone I use to sharpen my Montec broadheads. I do not have the lower JP enterprise 3.5lb pull springs in yet so I chose to install the CMMG springs. My DSA lower did not have the grip screw hole tapped all the way thru with a 1/4-28 tap so I will be adding the setscrew tonight. The stock trigger has a lot of pretravel before activation and the setscrew allows one to reduce this pretravel.

This was a pretty cool project to build and learn how it works. Thanks for everyones help. Tonight - assemble the bolt carrier group, install upper and finish trigger work.
 

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