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Discussion starter · #22 ·
New cable / sprocket fan steering is complete. tested it out last night and works perfect. at full throttle I can still turn the fan all the way around with one finger. Before at full throttle, I couldn't even turn the fan at half throttle with the push/pull. for the cable / sprocket setup, I used 3 pillow blocks on the steer stick, and 3 on the fan stand itself. on both shafts, there are pillow blocks attacked to the boat itself. By attaching to the boat, you transfer a lot of the forces directly into the boat, the most structurally sound object on the boat obviously.... I believe this is why it steers so easy, instead of the shafts binding due to the deck or fan stand stand moving, most of the forces are transfered to the bottom pillow blocks attached to the boat, which does not move at all. this allows the shafts to spin much easier. Maybe I am wrong, but this is my thought, and it works great. For the rest of the parts, I used 1" solid shaft for the fan, and 1" structural tubing for the steer stick. I used 6" diameter, #40 sprockets on both the fan shaft, and steer stick, as well as 1/8" galvanized cable. I don't see any reason to go larger than 1/8". the cable is rated for almost 400#... any larger will just make steering much more difficult. For pulleys, I used simple garage door pulleys I bought at menards. Here are some pics of the final setup



 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
The Herculiner installed in the boat seems to work pretty good. I would highly recommend. Also got a lot of other cosmetic work done. Its starting to look nice. Just need to install the Hydro-Turf whenever it shows up, and put the wrap on the outside, and It will be pretty much complete :)... for now anyway....



 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
A little update in case anyone is interested.

Traded in the Yamaha 90 2-Stroke for a suzuki 115 4-Stroke. Added about 10 MPH top end and a lot more torque! Also had to re-construct the shroud since I had a blade blow through the side! The trailer was jealous that the boat was so much attention, so I did a reconstruct on the trailer. New bunks / Brackets, wheel bearings, rims and tires, and a nice new paint job. For the covers on the bunks, I used Caliber Bunk Wraps instead of carpet. I think they are made out of HDPE, and I really like them. The boat slides on and off a lot better.

Here is a current picture. Hopefully I can get the wrap on soon to finish the exterior!

 
Discussion starter · #31 ·
how much did you get for the 90 on trade in if you don't mind me askin
It is hard to say the exact trade in price. On paper it was $3,000, but sever other factors were worked into the deal, such as CNC Jackplate, controls, lower price on the 115 outboard. I don't buy anything from a dealer without a grueling negotiation process! Salesman hate me with a passion lol.
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
looks good LEET. I was told not to make a solid side shroud like that. do you think its louder now with the side solid? love the wrap.
I don't notice any difference with the solid side. It might be a little louder, but performance wise, it still pushes like hell!

I had expanded metal on the side, but one night a piece of metal broke off the back of the shroud and the prop blew it right out the side and almost hit me. I had a sheet of solid aluminum at home, so decided to put it on for extra safety.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
I don't notice any difference with the solid side. It might be a little louder, but performance wise, it still pushes like hell!

But now that I have done some research on the solid side, I am starting to second guess myself..... The same time I put the solid side on, I also replaced the reduction belt because the old one was slipping and worn out. I guess I contributed the little extra noise to the new belt that isn't slipping, and spinning the prop faster. I think I am going to try and drill a bunch of 1" DIA holes in it, unless I am better off starting over?
 
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