[jb-hunter]

Just put Joe's limb pockets on my barely used Osprey for exact same issue and I was shooting it at 39# when it popped out. Pulled it down, checked it all out, set it back to 38#, second pull popped out again. Oneida can't figure out how to add 40 cents in additional plastic to fix a known issue... amazing huh.

Crap like this keeps Joe in business.

Order a set from Joe and be done with the issue forever... easy to install, Joe can talk you through it, some minor fitting required.

Edit - Yeah, and I know it sucks to spend $750 on a new bow that has a known issue and does it first time you use it...

 

[GaryBriggs]

THATS CORRECT! Without loosening the tensioning hub first there is
no way to get the bow timed evenly!

Its been awhile since I watched all those videos on Oneidas posted in the American Eagle forum, seems like it was a pretty important point and stuck in my mind.

I have never owned a new Oneida, is this in the manual? I'm sure it would have to be.

 

[Deer_Predator]

Its been awhile since I watched all those videos on Oneidas posted in the American Eagle forum, seems like it was a pretty important point and stuck in my mind.

I have never owned a new Oneida, is this in the manual? I'm sure it would have to be.

:tu: sure is

 

[Hoythntr96]

The guy i bought my Osprey from put aluminum washers between the pocket and riser and tightened the limbs down onto the washers to "lock it in" to the current 32ish pounds. Looks goofy but keeps the pocket from separating from the limb, so that's nice. When i have the cash, a set of Joe's pockets are going on there!

 

[scotte17]

I was under the impression you never change the draw weight WITHOUT loosening the timing screw first. Or am I wrong?

Oneida service techs have told me that it is perfectly ok to move one limb bolt at a time (a max of one turn) without loosening the timing screw. If your not comfortable with that go .5 turns. The biggest issue is that they must not be moved more than 1 turn difference more most likely will cause the timing cable to slip and need replaced. I know that timing some 50-70 lb black eagles would not be possible without doing this. The limbs are too "loaded" at 70 lbs. So I loosen the timing screw and time the bow at 50 lbs. Then I work each limb bolt up, taking turns, until the bow is up to the desired weight.

 

[American Eagle]

Its been awhile since I watched all those videos on Oneidas posted in the American Eagle forum, seems like it was a pretty important point and stuck in my mind.

I have never owned a new Oneida, is this in the manual? I'm sure it would have to be.

I don't know what is in the manuals.I do know it is a fact.

 

[American Eagle]

Oneida service techs have told me that it is perfectly ok to move one limb bolt at a time (a max of one turn) without loosening the timing screw. If your not comfortable with that go .5 turns. The biggest issue is that they must not be moved more than 1 turn difference more most likely will cause the timing cable to slip and need replaced. I know that timing some 50-70 lb black eagles would not be possible without doing this. The limbs are too "loaded" at 70 lbs. So I loosen the timing screw and time the bow at 50 lbs. Then I work each limb bolt up, taking turns, until the bow is up to the desired weight.

Why not loosen the timing screw and tiller the bow the right way?
Doing as you describe the bow is allways out of time.
Even a small difference in turning one limb bolt more than the other will
throw off the bows tiller/timing!
I would like to see some one set up a bow as you described then loosen
the tensioning hub in front of me. Then tell me the bow was tuned.

 

[andreww5001]

So say that I have a friend... who wasn't aware of loosening the timing screw before adjusting the weight in either of his Ospreys. And this "friend" of mine, has turned the limb bolts several times without loosening the timing screw. He wants to make sure that he hasn't or doesn't do any damage to these two bows. What would be the best way to fix said problem? (I'm using "friend" because like an idiot, I didn't read the stupid manual)

 

[American Eagle]

I would inspect the timing cable/wheels.
If they look good. I would loosen the tensioning
screw. Tiller the bow and should be good to go.
The bows will shoot without loosening. But
will be out of tiller some to varying degrees.
And some the cable may slip or break.
I hear for bowfishing it doesn't have to be
perfect but imho I want my bows as well
as any customers bows spot on.

 

[scotte17]

The "right way" doesn't work on some bows set at the higher poundage. Yes if you loosen the timing screw on one of these bows the that is "loaded" one of the limbs will jump. Timing it at high poundage with the timing screw loosened even a fraction of a turn to tiller can cause the limbs to jump. Yes you can use the force of your hand to hold the limb at correct tiller length but that is the same as using the timing screw. The timing system is there to keep the limbs pulling equally. Some shooters will set tiller intentionally uneven to accommodate for a specific shooting style. This is easily accomplished by moving the limb bolt slightly after the timing is set.

I'm just passing along information that was told to me by the manufacturer's technicians and it has worked great for me on these higher poundage bows.

 

[Deer_Predator]

So say that I have a friend... who wasn't aware of loosening the timing screw before adjusting the weight in either of his Ospreys. And this "friend" of mine, has turned the limb bolts several times without loosening the timing screw. He wants to make sure that he hasn't or doesn't do any damage to these two bows. What would be the best way to fix said problem? (I'm using "friend" because like an idiot, I didn't read the stupid manual)

:laugh:.... No worries... Just loosen up the orange timing screw then measure from the string to the cam on the top and the bottom... Make sure they are even measurements then snug everything else up... you will know if you tore up the timing cable..

OH and Tell "your friend" no real man reads the manual or asks for directions :laugh:

 

[American Eagle]

Works on all bows. The higher weight bows jump because the brace is most likely set to high causing the cams to be starting into rotation. Set the bows brace height to the low end of spec and tiller correctly. I havent seen a lever action bow that couldnt be tillered correctly.
Doesn't matter who said what. All bows can be tillered correctly.

The "right way" doesn't work on some bows set at the higher poundage. Yes if you loosen the timing screw on one of these bows the that is "loaded" one of the limbs will jump. Timing it at high poundage with the timing screw loosened even a fraction of a turn to tiller can cause the limbs to jump. Yes you can use the force of your hand to hold the limb at correct tiller length but that is the same as using the timing screw. The timing system is there to keep the limbs pulling equally. Some shooters will set tiller intentionally uneven to accommodate for a specific shooting style. This is easily accomplished by moving the limb bolt slightly after the timing is set.

I'm just passing along information that was told to me by the manufacturer's technicians and it has worked great for me on these higher poundage bows.

 

[Skippy]

The "right way" doesn't work on some bows set at the higher poundage. Yes if you loosen the timing screw on one of these bows the that is "loaded" one of the limbs will jump. Timing it at high poundage with the timing screw loosened even a fraction of a turn to tiller can cause the limbs to jump. Yes you can use the force of your hand to hold the limb at correct tiller length but that is the same as using the timing screw. The timing system is there to keep the limbs pulling equally. Some shooters will set tiller intentionally uneven to accommodate for a specific shooting style. This is easily accomplished by moving the limb bolt slightly after the timing is set.

I'm just passing along information that was told to me by the manufacturer's technicians and it has worked great for me on these higher poundage bows.

if your bow jumps when you loosen the timing screw then there is stress on the timing system to start with... if your brace is set too high it will cause this... use the Oneida bow press blocks or dowel pin method to remove the string and take a few twists out of it. If the brace is set correctly you can tiller the bow at 80 lbs if you like. there should never be any stress on the timing system, there is no need for it.

 

[Skippy]

Also ran across this.. Oneida with instructions on it ... From Oneida..... Case closed

 

[Deer_Predator]

Also ran across this.. Oneida with instructions on it ... From Oneida..... Case closed

Bada bing!! :tu: