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Ideas for a custom build.

11K views 49 replies 17 participants last post by  DCronk  
#1 ·
I'm in the planning stages of a build that won't be started for a while, I'm just trying to hammer out all of the details way in advance so that when the time comes, I'll have all of my carp in a row.

I'm looking to have something built in the 1770-1778 range w/ 28" sides and pods. I'm looking for info on hull design. It'll be a jon style hull with a flat front or an "airboat style". These are a few of the details I have yet to work out.

Ribbed hull or slick-bottom w/ poly? And what kind of hull thickness on the slick-bottom?
tunnel or no tunnel (on a ribbed of course?)
Standard outboard or OB jet?

I'm really just looking for advice or perhaps pros and cons of going either direction from people who are currently running similar setups. Since I know this will be asked, I am not planning on putting a pusher fan on this rig. It'll be running a 24v trolling motor.

I fish mostly Erie and a few local inland lakes, so relatively shallow water, muddy bottom with the occasional rock or stump that I come in contact with.
 
#50 ·
If you sell your 16' let me know. I may be interested depending on the timing. And I don't know where you fish on Erie, but if it's anything like when I go with Dave I couldn't imagine taking my mud motor. That would be a long, slow boat ride. Love my mud motor for smaller stuff and rivers duck hunting though.
 
#43 ·
Sounds like you have a boat plan! I agree with poly being heavy and unnecessary for grass and mud. I'm putting poly on mine but only because we have a gravel bottom in a lot of places here and poly will slide across it easily while giving my boat the protection it needs from the all the cypress stumps and oyster beds. Looking forward to seeing your build pics.
 
#42 ·
Why would you want a ribbed bottom with gator glide. If you plan on putting a fan on it, a slick bottom will not grab on the bottom while turning. A ribbed bottom will grab and limit you too turn it. Slick with gator glide and you will be a proud boat owner.
 
#36 ·
I would have a problem with drilling a couple hundred holes in the bottom of my brand new boat!
 
#32 ·
Slick bottom, NO PODS unless you see you need them afterwards. I wouldn't see any need for poly either. Your not gonna run dry, lol. If anything get some gator glide on the bottom.
 
#27 ·
3/8? Thats some serious aluminum. One heavy SOB .... I'm sure you meant 3/16" lol
 
#21 ·
I have a 2008 Silver Dollar Mod VEE 1/8 thick 5086 1774 20 inches deep.
2008 50 hrp Honda long shaft
Boat has pods on it and the hull is flat as a pancake at the back b/c I wanted it that way.
Pods have trim tabs made on them, made from 3/16 5086, have braces in them and you can trim tabs down where boat will not porpoise.
They drain on inside of boat, and made to push water at outboard!
I like it.
 
#17 ·
If you let off just a little a slick bottom will turn. I wouldn't worry about that, I kind of like driving them that way. I've had mine around 58 mph and never thought " I wish I had ribs".
 
#16 ·
Here is my $0.02... I was in the same situation this summer when considering my next boat. As you've seen, I ended up with a 1660 tunnel with pods. During the process of reaching that choice, I also considered Jet vs Prop vs Mud, Slick bottom vs Ribbed, Tunnel hull, pods.. etc. Each of these things has pros and cons, there is no perfect set up. What I had to do was build my boat based on what would perform best for 95% of my time on the water.

For a Jet outboard, you have the benefit of running super skinny, but it has the draw back of sucking up things, such as a massive amount of sea weed if you run salt water like I do. They also have problems with wear when sucking up sandy bottoms.

For Mud motors, which were my top pick for a while, you can run in stumps, mud, and super shallow without worry, but you give up speed, and a lot of it. To get anywhere near the performance of an outboard, you have to run dual mud motors, which will set you back a very pretty penny.

After ruling out Jets, and Mud motors, I came back to a propped outboard. A standard outboard has considerably more speed per HP, and is a better bang for the buck. The draw back of course is that you have something hanging below the boat which will limit how shallow you can run, and possibly hit things with.

This led to the choice of Tunnel vs. no tunnel. Since I wanted to run as shallow as possible, and had already ruled out mud motors and jets, it left me with a pretty clear choice of building a tunnel hull. If my choice was one of the other propulsion methods, I would not have had a tunnel hull built.

The choice between a slick bottom and a ribbed came down was a tough one. If I had an extra $3K I probably would have ended up with a slick bottom with rounded chines from Gatortrax, but the cost difference was just too much for me. To have any kind of turning performance for a slick bottom, you need to have rounded chines, which the vast majority of boat builders don't do, leaving you with very few, and expensive options. Cost being a factor pretty much dictated the choice of a ribbed bottom for me.
 
#22 ·
I've spent quite a lot of time looking at pictures of your boat. I'm not sold on a jet, mostly because of the thick weeds just about everywhere I fish.

I'm not opposed to a tunnel and propped outboard. that way I would have the efficiency of an outboard and still the ability to run relatively shallow.